Blown Head Gasket!

[BlownNotch]

Well, I got an F-150 pulley and I also got a blown head gasket! It was great the two days it lasted though, 2 pounds of boost, what a difference. I know my tune is most likely to blame. The sad thing is, there's a DynoJet less than a minute from my house. I have a low mile stock engine with stock heads. My question is what head gaskets should I get? I've used the "search" tool and found quite a few recomendations such as the M-6051-B51. My plan is to get it back together with stock heads until I get a real motor but want it to last a while.

[5150 LX]

I like the B-51 gasket and they are reasonably cheap. If your local Fordhouse is a SVO dealer they may even have them in stock. Other wise, I'd go just with some Fel-pro's (forget the part #). You best upgrade at this point would be to get you some ARP Studs. Just be sure that you are very meticulous when you clean up the heads and block, do not use any kind of electric/air powered tools to do so or you run the risk of screwing up the mating surfaces, a scotchbrite pad and solvent will do the trick.

[slow91]

fel pros 1011-2. or you could get cometic gaskets. cost 2x as much and wont blow but if you detonate something internal will probably break. easier to replace a head gasket than a piston. should at least get some arp bolts. they are like 40.00 at summit. also have the heads checked at machine shop, might need a resurfacing. i've just blown my 2nd one. I knew to get it tuned but I was fixing a number of issues so I could get it up to the tuner. took it out and romped on it. bam. set your timing at 10deg and get the chip done. from what i hear they have to take timing off the top because with the blower, compression and longer dwell time, the computer advances timing too much or something like that

[BlownNotch]

Thanks for all the info, I'll pick up the B51's. I'm going to call the local machine shop and see how long a surface job will take. I'm just anxious to get it back together, ya know? As far as the ARP's go, I was just going to get the bolts not studs just because of price. Will I regret not getting the studs? I'm not planning on hunting for more power with this motor, other than the Pulley I just put on. Is 8 lbs too much for Bolts?

[regattacoupe]

Nah, the bolts are fine.

[RSNovi]

The ROL gaskets seem to hold up real well in my car.

[fanglemeister]

Does ROL make a different gasket for iron vs alloy heads? What's the part#s and prices for them? Are these steel core gaskets?

If so these are probably very similar to the Victor Reinz-sourced Solicor gasket, part# 3428SCR or 5956SC (big bore). I've had excellent performance from these gaskets. What's nice about these is, they are available everywhere through NAPA, Carquest, etc., so finding replacements when you least expect to is almost trivial. A little pricey but the best I've tried so far.

They also sell a Nitroseal graphite head gasket which is similar to Ford's B51, part # 3428SG. In fact I'd be surprised if Ford's aren't relabeled Vic Reinz gaskets. The graphite-based gaskets aren't quite as strong as the steel core gaskets but they hold up very well in sub-10psi apps and transfer heat alot better than other designs.

[RSNovi]

Here is some info:

http://www.rolmfg.com/Technical/Performance/HG_Tech.htm

I run the HG32841HR. They can be ordered through Murrays.

[BlownNotch]

I just got the B51's today along with ARP studs. I went to Mustangs Unlimited in Manchester,Conn. and they were out of the bolts so I got the studs instead-ARP 154-4001. One thing I noticed about the head gaskets is the lack of sealer rings around the water passages, just a different design I guess. The directions with the studs say to use either ARP Moly or 30W oil. Should I use anything special for oil on the studs? As far as cleaning up the mating surfaces, I got Scotchbrite pads but is there anything you recommend for solvent or anything to stay away from? Thanks in advance!

[fanglemeister]

Sorry for the late reply, you probably have back together already? If not...

You can use the oil or the ARP moly lube, just pay close attention to the directions, will indicate that you should torque the moly lube'd fasteners a lesser amount than plain oil'd fasteners (which will yield the same bolt stretch, just that the moly is that much more slick). Don't forgtet a dab of thread sealant on the outside studs.

As for cleaning up the surfaces I like to use scotchbrite pads attached to a small diameter wheel in a drill, then after blowing everything out with compresed air, wipe down the metal surfaces with laquer thinner for good gasket adhesion.

[EricBlueCoupe]

Does ROL make a different gasket for iron vs alloy heads? What's the part#s and prices for them? Are these steel core gaskets?

If so these are probably very similar to the Victor Reinz-sourced Solicor gasket, part# 3428SCR or 5956SC (big bore). I've had excellent performance from these gaskets. What's nice about these is, they are available everywhere through NAPA, Carquest, etc., so finding replacements when you least expect to is almost trivial. A little pricey but the best I've tried so far.

They also sell a Nitroseal graphite head gasket which is similar to Ford's B51, part # 3428SG. In fact I'd be surprised if Ford's aren't relabeled Vic Reinz gaskets. The graphite-based gaskets aren't quite as strong as the steel core gaskets but they hold up very well in sub-10psi apps and transfer heat alot better than other designs.

I use the Victor Nitroseal graphite gaskets on mine. I only run 5# of boost, but they have been solid so far. I work for Car Quest, and got the graphites because they were easier to get than the Solicors. I called the guys at Victor and they also told me that the graphite will hold up very well in a mild supercharged application, and they transfer heat very well. He also said the Solicors would be suitable for the higher boost stuff. If I ever blow a head gasket, I may switch to the Solicors.