got my new asp racing pulleys today

[brian88lx]

I bought a 7in 8 rib crank pulley and a 3.55 inch 8 rib blower pulley. The first thing i noticed is, they under drove the hell out of my crank pulley for my regular belt accessories. they took it down from around 6 inches to like 4 inches. Is this going to hurt my cooling or charging at all?

I figured they would keep the stock size on the system belt but i guess not.

also, i wonder whats up. the pulley is machined so close to the bolts that attach it to the crank that you cant get a socket on them. im going to have to get allen head bolts or something.

[speedytang]

Mine came with the hex bolts and your right no way to get a socket in. Mine is the same pulley setup and no problems with cooling even when I had the original radiator. I had underdrive pulleys on mine and it was a 4" also but kept on the water pump pulley to speed thing back up now that I think about it.

[brian88lx]

Well I called up my dad this morning to see what the deal was with those bolts. They had accidently got thrown out by him. After a little diving in the trash, all is recovered. After I get out of work today I am going to bolt the pulley's in and take my belt measurements. Hopefully I can get them tomorrow.

its been a while since i drove the mustang. Im starting to get a little twitch. After painting the engine bay and block, it was worth every second of downtime I must say.

[brian88lx]

I got the car up and running. I hit 12 psi on the vr4 before i let off the throttle. No traction.

There's a small possibility a blew the head gaskets again when I took it for a test drive. It keep spitting coolant out the over flow tube. Only thing is. When I took it on its test drive, it had brand new graphite headgaskets.

[speedytang]

Brian what are you doing about timing control. Are you sure the heads are flat and did you switch to new ARP head bolts because the Ford units are a one time deal. I have seen my bolts after using them twice and they had stretched 1/4"-1/2" and would not hold torque.

[brian88lx]

I have an msd 6al...no boost retard.

i am using arp head studs, brand new they should be good. hrmm.

[speedytang]

So what do you have your timing set at. 10 psi a max of 19 degrees at 93 octane and for every point under 93 subtract 1 degree of timing.

[speedytang]

I seen your other post and if you even have your timing at 10 degrees that is a total of 26 degrees of timing and even with 93 octane your limited to 6 psi and at 10psi and 26 degrees of timing you would need at least 105 octane.

[brian88lx]

Unfortunatly I think my timing was at 18 with the spout in.

Should I run spout out? Or should I just turn the timing way way down?

I may be trading my 6al for a 6btm so I may get boost timing retard.





this is how far i was able to tear it down last night.

[speedytang]

If the above is correct that is 34 degrees and at about 3200 rpm you would be cooked since full timing would have been reached. You will either need to set your timing at 20 degrees and remove the spout or get a BTM or a PMS unit.

[brian88lx]

I ended up agreeing to trade my 6al for a 6btm so I will be running a BTM.

Should i still run with the spout out with the btm?

[speedytang]

No, Just set your crank timing at 14 degrees and set the BTM. You will want to start the BTM at 1.5 degrees for each pound of boost to start out. I have never run a BTM but heard they are not that accurate on the dial so start high. At least at 1.5 and 10psi you will be removing 15 degrees of timing which should get you at around 19-20 degrees of total timing.

[speedytang]

Brian did you get your car back together?

[brian88lx]

Brian did you get your car back together?

Im sorry I dont know your name. Anyways, speedy...;)

Nope not yet back together. My heads were looking suspicious so I decided to take them in to get pressure checked, and milled. Come to find out all of my valve seats were not sealing at all. So am having the heads milled, all of the valves and seats re machined, new valve steam seals, and new valve springs.

im going to switched headgaskets per the person thats doing my heads and runnin the controversial felpro 10111.

From what he told me, I MUST loosen a 1/4 turn and retorque after a complete warmup/cooldown cycle.

I am still waiting for my 6BTM to come in the mail, I should be picking up my heads today.

When I get back on the road I will be running a 6BTM, alot less timing and probably 110 octane.

What do ya think on all of this? How about that 110?

[regattacoupe]

well with 110 octane there's no need to back the timing down. How ever 20 total(spout out) is usually about right for pump gas( highest octane @ the pump). I ran my novi with 8 initial and 24 locked and the times were nearly identical excepted the car idle'd and started much better with the spout out.