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Extreme difficulty with Novi install, please help......
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Thread: Extreme difficulty with Novi install, please help......

  1. #1
    Senior SCH Member 92 coupe's Avatar
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    Extreme difficulty with Novi install, please help......

    I bought a smog eliminator today, so that problem in a previous post is resolved. Now, the stock belt does not fit (90.5 inches). What is the correct size belt?? The belt rubs against the upper nut that holds the alternator on the bracket. With no belt on, is the tensioner suppost to touch the water pump pulley? I put my stock water pump pulley back on and the stock alternator pulley. This has been a very bad experience for me. I screwed up my oil pan today trying to tap it, so in the morning it has to come off and have a bung welded on. My brand new kit is missing all kinds of parts and Paxton/Vortech are not being very helpful. The entire air intake assembly, inlet pipe, and air filter are missing. The oil pan punch is missing. I am missing all kinds of bolts, nuts and washers. Well, if you guys can help with this belt problem, It would really help me out. Thanks in advance and for all previous help.

  2. #2
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    I had that same exact problem. The belt would just barely touch that nut and ride on it. The only solution I found, was to grind the nut down with my bench grinder. Put it in a set of vise grips, wear safety glasses, and grind the face of the nut down so it is thinner. Now, it does not touch, but it is still rather close. Hope this helps you.

    Oh, with the factory waterpump pulley and the factory crank pulley from Paxton, I use a Gates belt K060915. And with no belt on, the tensioner will rest on the waterpump pulley, yes. Even with the velt on, they can get fairly close.
    Last edited by EricBlueCoupe; 08-28-2004 at 07:18 AM.
    1989 LX Coupe
    Novi 1000, FMS/Bosch 42#'s, GT40 irons, GT40 intake, Pro-M 80mm MAF, 65mm T/B, 1.7 rockers, stock cam, MAC longtubes, MAC prochamber, flowmasters welded in stock pipes, T5z, 3.73 gears.

    Best ET: 12.55
    Best MPH: 115.2

  3. #3
    Senior SCH Member mheinjr's Avatar
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    Do you have the single belt or double belt paxton? Also do you have your air condioning pump, and your power stearing pump on?

    I used to have the double belt system, and the smog pump elim! The only problem I ever had was when you put the tension on the belt the belt gets pressed down right into the water pump pulley!

    I had the AC elim kit that moves the power stearing up higher! What I had to do to fix that was get a cobra water pump pulley, and a 3.8 "i think" 7" power stearing pump pulley!

    As for the belt rubbing the nut! I never had a problem with that! Although after installed it was very very very close to the nut! So I think if you grind some off it will be fine!
    Mark
    90 GT, With a Forged 383 Chevy, AFR 227 heads, BDS 6-71 Blower with 2 750 edelbrock carbs, all braided lines, TH-400 reverse manual valve body to back it up, and so much more.....
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    Old Times with 302...
    T-5: 12.671@110.52mph(1.951 60ft.)
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  4. #4
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    I just left the nut off. i did make and effort to grind the nut down but it flew out of the vise grips to who knows where. never did find it.
    s/c 331

  5. #5
    Senior SCH Member 92 coupe's Avatar
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    So you have no nut supporting the bottom of your alternator?? Well I guess the bolt cant back out from the backside. I ended up grinding about 1/3 off the nut and it worked out great.

  6. #6
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    anything you do for the first time is going to be a pita. i remember beating on my oil pan for 2hours. my bolt doesn't move, i'd have to hammer it out.
    s/c 331

  7. #7
    Senior SCH Member PNY PWR's Avatar
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    I flipped the the bottom alt. bolt cause the head is thinner than the nut. I also ground the head of the bolt a lil for good measure.

    What smog delete did you use? I tried a Ford one but there was nowhere to bolt the support bracket to. Running gutted pump right now.
    1990 LX 5.0 5spd
    2 belt Novi 1000 stock pullied, stock motor, 19# injectors, 12:1 FMU, 155lph fuel pump, Autolite 23's @.037, A9P pcm, Kirban AFPR, electric fan, PPI 180* t-stat, 3 row radiator, 2.5" off road h-pipe, 40 series Flows dumped, 3.73 gears, weld in SFC's, FRPP alum. driveshaft w/ Jeg's loop
    http://aircapitalmustangs.com

  8. #8
    SCH Moderator regattacoupe's Avatar
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    the ASP is a good and it's designed for the blower kits.
    89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:





    Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D

  9. #9
    Senior SCH Member PNY PWR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by regattacoupe
    the ASP is a good and it's designed for the blower kits.
    AhhHaaa, Go ASP :famous:
    1990 LX 5.0 5spd
    2 belt Novi 1000 stock pullied, stock motor, 19# injectors, 12:1 FMU, 155lph fuel pump, Autolite 23's @.037, A9P pcm, Kirban AFPR, electric fan, PPI 180* t-stat, 3 row radiator, 2.5" off road h-pipe, 40 series Flows dumped, 3.73 gears, weld in SFC's, FRPP alum. driveshaft w/ Jeg's loop
    http://aircapitalmustangs.com

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