what do i need to complete install.

[88gttom]

ok, i want to buy a 1000 kit, what else am i gonna need to complete the install, im talking down to the last wire. im just trying to get a final cost of a cash total that im gonna need. also, i have the ac removed and the power stearing moved up into its place, am i gonna have any issues with this?? what about the bbk underdrives i have on. thanks tom

[regattacoupe]

If you buy a new novi you should have no issues with underdrives. I see you already have a H/C/I car. On that note I can only reccomend a Pro-m 80 mm and 42lb injectors. you can usually find really good deals on this stuff used. I'll have a set for sale this winter for sure. A powerpipe will be a big help as well. An accufab AFPR, and a 255lph pump. Of course this is the no cutting corners route and it's really the only way to do it right.

[92 coupe]

I will try to save you some headache I had. I just installed mine and had MANY issues.

1. FIRST AND FOREMOST make sure all parts are in the box when you get it. Mine was missing the ENTIRE air inlet asssembly, air box & filter. Not to mention a whole bag of nuts and bolts and to top it off, my oil pan tapered punch was missing also. This was a brand new kit. Had to have Paxton overnight the parts to me.
2. Make sure you have a SMOG PUMP or SMOG DELETE kit. You cannot install the NOvi 2 belt kit without it. I found that out after I tried to install it after I removed my smog pump and tossed in in the trash. Save yourself a headache and have one or the other.
3. I would highly suggest a bypass valve. Mine was a cheap Bosch plastic bypass. Got it off ebay for $20 and roughly $10 in fittings and hose. I went ahead and installed mine because I know I eventually will want more than 5-6 pounds of boost.
4. I upgraded my intake tube to a 4" AFM pipe after seeing the stock flimsy tube. Prices for power pipes range from $99 -$250. I paid $199 for mine. I went with AFM because I knew it would fit with no trouble. I have heard others have had issues with other "pipes".
5. The stock belt will not fit. You will have to use a 91" 6 rib belt. The stock one is 1/2" too short.
6. remove your underdrive pullys or at least replace your waterpump one with the stock piece.
7. you will need a 3/8 NPT tap for your oil pan that is not included.
8. If you have any fan other than a stock fan or a ramcharger fan WITH a larger than stock radiator - IT WILL NOT FIT. I have a 3 core copper/brass radiator and I have ~3.6" between the radiator and the crank pulley. I had to buy a ramcharger dual fan setup. My SN 95 fan wouldnt even come close to fitting.
9. You will have to grind aprox. 1/3 off the nut that holds the alternator on (you will see when you get the kit) or the bely will rub on it. Paxton says to install the bolt from the rear, but some install it through the front in case the alternator needs to be replaced. Either way, watch the clearance for the belt.
10. Pay attention to the S/C belt tensioner. My pulley was installled backwards from the factory. Look at the pictures in the manual and make sure it is in correctly. I wasted about 30-45 minutes scratching my head - why can't I tighten the belt down?? Because I bolted it on backwards because the pulley was on the the wrong side, blah, blah, blah......
11. Do not use teflon tape. Use teflon paste when necessary.
12. A boost guage is most benificial and I would suggest getting one.
13. If you have any injectors other than stock, plan on buying a new disk for the FMU as it comes calibrated for 19lb injectors.

Right now this is all that I can think of right now. I paid $1549 for my Novi 1000 about 2 weeks ago w/$50 for shipping. Right at $1599. I have probably spent around $2100-$2200 so far and I havent even driven it. I bought a gauge, power pipe, MSD 6BTM, dual ramcharger fans, aftermarket overflow, new belt, synthtic oil and filter, 255lph fuel upgrade (GSS340), etc... It adds up very quickly. Good luck and I will help you any way I can. Mine is all installed but I lack a fan and overflow since mine wont fit. Hopefully I can drive it for the first time this weekend. :D

[88gttom]

ok, i have a ramchargers fan, i have 24 lb injectors, whould these work or am i wasting my time and should get bigger ones and who sells them at what price? i was gonna upgrade the fuel pump to a 255 as mine is only 155 right now. i have a power pipe from vortech so this should work, i need to get a bigger mass air meter and from what 92 coupe said, " 13. If you have any injectors other than stock, plan on buying a new disk for the FMU as it comes calibrated for 19lb injectors." how much is a new disk and where can i get that?? i have the smog pump, has anyone herd anything about the ac removal being a problem?? my power stearing pump is moved up to where the ac used to be, is this gonna effect anything?? belt issues?? thanks for the info tom

[88gttom]

one other thing, where can i get a pro-m 80 mm maf at for a good price, as well as the cheapest place for 42 lb injectors. Should i upgrade to a 70mm throttle body to?? will it fit fine on my cobra?? thanks

[fanglemeister]

You can specify which FMU you want when you order your blower kit, just tell them what injectors you have installed when you order. Or go the non bandaid way and buy some 42# injectors and go without the FMU. This can be done at a later date though, if you want to run it with 24s and FMU first that will work. Some people have major tuning issues with the C&L meter but it works fine for other people. Being that you have increased the airflow via E cam and bigger heads, etc., you may have some issues with it. I'd go with a Pro-M (btdt, have the C&L sitting on the shelf).

You may want to think about adding an aftermarket ignition system at some point down the road, most of the popular offerings feature some form of boost retard. I'm running the Crane HI6 myself with zero problems, others swear by the MSD products.

Knowledge is your best friend during a blower install, read up on everything two times over before you start out. When in doubt, ask here!

[88gttom]

sweet, so the 24 lb's will work. i will have to see how much cash i can come up with and maybe go out and get the 42 lb'ers. where is their a good place to buy a pro-m? and what about the 70mm throtle body, should i upgrade from the 65mm?

[88gttom]

hey, i was told as well as a 255 in line fuel pump, i will need another one like a t-rex because i have h/c/i
is this true??

[regattacoupe]

if you run an FMU i'd say yes, you'd need the T-rex for the high pressures. It won't hurt to have one regardless. 42's and the pro-m is the best route however, some have luck with FMU's and some don't.

[5150 LX]

I would suggest a Walbro 255 inline, a bit cheaper and it's a reliable very silent pump.

[fanglemeister]

I suggest that if you install a high pressure Walbro gss340 255 lph in-tank pump you will have all the fuel pressure you need, in fact adding an inline T-rex (190 lph) would be a waste of money. What in-tank pump are you running now with your h/c/i setup? (please tell me it's not the oem pump).

There's lots of places to get the Pro-M meters, just shop around. Don't buy a blower cal. meter, just get the standard meter, they are easier to tune.

The 42# Bosch injectors are getting harder to find these days, used to be able to snag a set for $299 but lately if you can find them they are priced up around $380. Should be able to find Lucas/MSD/Accel 42s for @ $340. most places. They are both good injectors, I prefer to run the Lucas at stock fuel pressure, Bosch at elevated pressures.

[88gttom]

i have a 155 fuel pump right now, i was going to get a 255 and 42lb injectors. so i should be good with only one pump?? good, price is going to be up their after i order everything. anyone know about the ac question i asked "has anyone herd anything about the ac removal being a problem?? my power stearing pump is moved up to where the ac used to be, is this gonna effect anything?? someone on another post said that the tensioner pully will hit the water pump pully. is this corredt??
after the 42 lb install, is my car going to idle funny? what puel pressure should i set the afpr to?? thanks tom

[88gttom]

i really need a answer about the removal of my AC because the guy from paxton does not know and says to ask on this forum. he said maybe a smaller belt but someone out here has to know. please let me know as i am s close to buying this unit but i have to make sure i wont have any problems. putting back the ac compressor is not an option as i bought the car with it removed. later tom

[fanglemeister]

Yes, the gss340 in-tank alone should be plenty for your power and boost levels. I still have my a/c connected, but it seems plenty of guys here have no a/c, I'd ASSume it only affects belt length, will let others chime in here. As far as the tensioner hitting, going to a shorter belt seems like a logical solution to move the tensioner back out again? (I have not BTDT).

Regarding idle on 42s, going with a Pro-M will help but the minimum pulsewidth that's hardwired into your processor is a little more than what's required to idle down at the oem 672 rpm level, you just have to set your idle a little higher, like 750-800, and it should smooth it right out. Set your fuel pressure to stock level, 40-42 psi, as this is the pressure all of your efi hardware is expecting it to be.

EDIT: regarding the a/c you can get an a/c eliminator pulley from www.UPRproducts.com that sits in place of the compressor, if the pulley absolutely has to be there. NOTE: when ordering anything from UPR online, when you check out, use coupon code [UPRproducts] for a 15% discount. ;)

[88gttom]

ok, ill let some other chime in and if no one knows, ill just go down the upr road. thanks again tom