S-Trim: Fuel pump and discharge tube

[Rreemo]

I've reading on this board for a while now, but still new to actually post. I just purchased an S-Trim kit for my 90' 5.0 Mustang. The kit is complete minus discharge tube and T-Rex.

I wanted to see if you guys have some advice for me:

- I talked to a guy with Vortech's help line, and when I asked him about using an in-tank pump, he said that the T-Rex is a must. I was thinking of using a Walbro 255 in-tank instead...shouldn't that be enough to not worry about the T-Rex? This is a mild bolt-on only car, and I'm thinking the 255 would be plenty, am I wrong?

- I was thinking of making my own disharge tube, and I would like to hear from some of you guys that have done the same...any pictures and/or resources you could point me to for tips would be greatly appreciated! The kit still has the orignial blow-off valve, just missing the actual tube itself.

Just some background: I've been doing a lot of homework, but I'm still new to forced induction (this will be my first blower car). However, I've been building on hot rods of all flavors for about 20 years, including several ground-up resto's on muscle cars, several years of bracket racing, couple years of fastest street car racing in the NMCA (until I got wiped by the cost), and currently on my 7th 5.0 Mustang....used to have an LX coupe with a big stroker/nitrous motor that ran in the low 9's (about 8 years ago)....I figure it's time to start learning about chargers on these cars, always been interested, but just now getting on the ball with it.

Thanks for any other advice you guys can provide!
Rreemo

[frdfandc]

Install at least a 190 intank pump plus the t-rex. The t-rex is needed unless you go with a full out race pump like the aeromotive or a weldon.

Personally I would install a 255 intank pump and the t-rex. The t-rex pump was engineered to work with the stock fuel pump and actually flows more than a 255. I would also suggest installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that is boost sensitive, like the aeromotive.

[blueoval92]

Get you some 3" exhaust tubing with a short radius 90* bend in it,with a foot of straight tubing at each end. You'll have to cut it in the bend to mount at the TB at just the right angle to get it toward the discharge of the blower, Then you'll have a very slight degree that you'll have to cut to angle it back toward the discharge of the blower, with the left over tubing match this angle and cut it, it'll be a very short peice. Once you get it mocked up you can take it to a muffler shop and have them weld it,or if you have the equip.weld it yourself. You can get the sleeving (attaches the discharge tube)and the exhaust tubing at a heavy truck parts and equipment outlet. Don't forget you'll have to drill a 1" hole on the bottom of the tube and cut a 1" inch by 1 1/2" long piece of tubing and weld it to the bottom of the tube for the bypass valve. So you can see this is not something your just going to throw together and be done in an hour. i"ve done this kind of fabricating/welding for years, and it takes time. BY the time you have labor/materials/welding IMO you would be better off buying one from Vortech/or Ebay. If you have restored cars then you know what it takes. :D

[Rreemo]

Interesting to hear on the pump...thanks for the advice! The guy at Vortech did say that the main reason for the T-Rex was to maintain a really consistent pressure.


As for the discharge, that's about what I had in mind...I've got some exhaust tubing on-hand, and I do have a mig in the garage as well, but I was wondering if it was worth my time or not...I can get the entire discharge assy from Vortech for $209, but he also said that it'd be about 10% cheaper going through one of their retail dealers. I've been watching Ebay, surely someone has one for sale out there somewhere...just haven't seen one yet. I'll keep looking and maybe start mocking something up in the garage as well.

thanks again for the advice!

[fanglemeister]

Most references list the t-Rex as a 190 lph pump, have they upgraded it to flow greater than 255 lph in the recent past?

edit: our illustrious, industrious moderator Steve (468LC) has made quite a few discharge tubes for Novi 1000 owners. Are you still around Steve?

[frdfandc]

I did some research. The T-rex flows approx 50 lbs of fuel per hour at 70 psi. This is acutally equivelent to a 190 LPH fuel pump. The 255 flows approx 65-66 lbs of fuel per hour. So I correct myself.

[fanglemeister]

I did some research. The T-rex flows approx 50 lbs of fuel per hour at 70 psi. This is acutally equivelent to a 190 LPH fuel pump. The 255 flows approx 65-66 lbs of fuel per hour. So I correct myself.

Is the 65#/hr number for the 255 also at 70 psi?

Perhaps that Vortech phone rep was simply indicating a "high pressure" style pump is required when running their "kit" (which includes an FMU).
:freaks:

[frdfandc]

Not sure what the fuel pressure is. I would have to say its stock fuel pressure, maybe 50 psi.

[Rreemo]

Is the 65#/hr number for the 255 also at 70 psi?

Perhaps that Vortech phone rep was simply indicating a "high pressure" style pump is required when running their "kit" (which includes an FMU).
:freaks:

I'll bet that's right....he was probably assuming that the FMU would be used as well.

Tell me what you guys think about this. I already have a 190lph pump, still new in the box, and I found someone who will sell me a T-Rex that is brand new in the box for $125...I was originally thinking that I would buy a 255 by itself and use it, but now I'm thinking of picking up that T-Rex and using it along with the 190 that I already have.

This car is a fairly low mileage car (80K), it's pretty much stock with the exception of long tubes, full exhaust, 3.73's, and a Performer 5.0 intake. when I put the charger on, I was planning to step it up to a 73mm C&L MAF, 36# injectors, and some sort of larger T-body all at the same time. Was thinking I'd use the FMU with it as well.

Does this all sound reasonable? What size T-body should I go with? I was thinking perhaps a 65mm?

I drive this car almost daily, so I want it to still be reliable, and I'd like to avoid any idle problems if at all possible. It will probably stay in this form for a while, because I also have another car (old muscle car) that gets the majority of my attention, as well as most of the extra funds that come around. ;)

The next thing that I'll most likely do to the Mustang will be a set of aluminum heads...but I'm sure that won't happen until next year sometime.

Thanks again for the replies!
Jason (Rreemo)

[fanglemeister]

The 190 + T-rex is a good combination. A little bit more hassle with the extra wiring, but not a BFD. I'd say don't hesitate to go for it.

I'd go for a Pro-M rather than a C&L meter. The C&Ls work okay with 19s or 24s but seem to get hinky as the injector size goes up from there.

You won't need a very high rate FMU, get the smallest rate you can with those injectors. If you run a custom eec tune you may find you don't need the FMU at all, but don't assume that without at least datalogging it with a wideband first.

If you find a great deal on a 65mm that will help out alot, but if you are going to buy new, just go straight for the 70mm unit, since the Ebok intake will take it without modification.

If you keep the stock cam in it you should not have any idle problems at all, at least any that can't be tuned out fairly easily. I finally found a set of local new X303 heads on the corral classifieds for $800. It only took me three years to come across that deal. LOL