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Thread: Cog pulley noise

  1. #1
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    Cog pulley noise

    I know the T-trim and the sound she makes but what do these cog pullies sound like. Im just curious what I should be hearing. Thanks 4 the help.

  2. #2
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    Very loud & ggggggnarly!!!

  3. #3
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    i am in the process of putting cods on my mustang but i cant seem to get them to work. What tensioner setup are you guys running? I and running the stock style tensioner with the lipped aluminum pulley in place of the facory one. I cannot keep the belt tight.
    A-4 BASED 321, BILLET CRANK AND RODS, RENEGADE NOVI 2000, C4......

  4. #4
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    i am using cogs on mine. i do have the sch racing brackets which does not flex and helps keep the cogs on.
    at the present time i am using the asp cogs. 75 crank and 32 blower pulley.
    the tensioner i have came from sch and it has lips on it also. this helps keep the cog on . i do put the cog on tight..it has maybe only about 1/2 inch of play up and down. when it is all tightened.
    good luck.

  5. #5
    Senior SCH Member MeJay Racing's Avatar
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    They sound awesome. Like a turbine engine to me. I run mine on a t-trim and have never had a problem. I am using the stock idler bracket with my cog idler. It is wider than the 8 rib idler as it is 35mm. Hope that helps.
    Mike
    Drag Racing...Where being the quickest is considered a good thing. :D

  6. #6
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    Thanks 4 the help guys. Mejay racing are u saying u dont use a blower brace? I was hoping that the cogs wouldnt ruin that great T-trim sound. I heard cogs on a 03 cobra and it was to high of a pitch in my opinnion. Just the reg spur cut gear vortech is a hard sound to beat and I was hoping the cogs wouldnt take that great noise away. Thanks 4 the help again.

  7. #7
    Senior SCH Member MeJay Racing's Avatar
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    Mine don't sound that high. I know the sound you are talking about. I have a HPM adjustable blower brace that I just haven't had on yet. I plan on using it on my new motor but was in a rush to get ready for the last race.
    I honestly love my cogs. Shoot me an email and I'll shoot you a video clip of my car on cogs.
    Mike
    mswalby@comcast.net
    Last edited by MeJay Racing; 03-12-2005 at 01:53 PM. Reason: added email
    Drag Racing...Where being the quickest is considered a good thing. :D

  8. #8
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    Wow...so i am not the only one going through 100+ dollar 35mm cogs.I'm running ys but i shear off the damn teeth......i've ripped the belt off a few times....once the belt was still on ......but with no teeth. I run Mondo bypass...and am not sure if it even works anymore....i hear the Super Mondo bypass is much better design blowing off air in all directions. So maybe my problem is bracket flex. I called Vortech and they aren't much help.."hello thanks for calling Vortech..duh."I've had an HPM for years but never installed it cause i have to fabricate...i guess it's time to try it. 77 and 30 tooth making 18-19 pounds.

  9. #9
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    if you are having bracket flex then you should try the sch racing bracket. that solved my problem of bracket flex. my problem now is the t trim is shearing the ribs off the belt. on the size, i am running a 74/28 right now. i was seeing 20lbs of boost.
    the gates belts with kevlar i was using cost me about 75.00. i found that a mazda mpv timing belt was the one i needed but they really dont last to long. mainly cause it also being a daily driver. so i ordered the 10 rib system from asp and some extra pulleys from ian at sch racing. hoping the belts will last as long as the s trim i had before. good luck

  10. #10
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    i had the 10 rib setup from vortech at first.....loved it.....never ever had belt problems......just slipped a little...but thats cause nobody volunteers important information like....instead of running a 6.87 or 7 inch /whatever crank pulley.....run the 8 inch...allowing you to run a larger blower pulley resulting in more contact surface for the belt. so i went with this cog set up. they say the cog makes much more midrange power.....but i suppose with my 725 rwhp and god only knows how much torque.....being only street driven.....i can afford to lose some power and gain traction. i can light the tires @ a 100 mph roll.i mainly only street drive it.hmmm.....anyone wanna buy a cog set up? haha i don't know what to do.....i have a feeling bracket deflection isn't the problem seeing as the belt alwyas stays on....just pulls all the teeth off the belt.how come rnengade guys make over 20 psi boost on an 8 rib....i suppose the answer is that 8 inch crank pulley:guess:
    1993 LX Hatchback
    408, Canfield Heads, Trick Flow Intake, Ys trim, Gen 7, PA-Super Leaker C-4,3.27 diff, 83lbs inj,kooks 2" into 3.5 collectors, Dr. gas 3" X pipe,Bassani 3" cat back,Second Street Speed Twin in-tank Bosch,Solid roller cam,Jesel Shaft mount rockers,VP C-16,Mallory HyFire667c

    10 # 10 rib TKO=625 rwhp
    17 # COG C-4=650 rwhp
    NEW SETUP(porting and valvetrain mods)
    18 # COG C-4=725 rwhp
    ...about my horsepower curve...well there isn't any curve....kinda straight up...then straight across...hahaha
    1 gallon VP C-16 $8.50
    1 supercharger COG belt $110
    Smoking the tires from a 100mph roll $PRICELESS

  11. #11
    SCH Moderator regattacoupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainestreetking
    i had the 10 rib setup from vortech at first.....loved it.....never ever had belt problems......just slipped a little...but thats cause nobody volunteers important information like....instead of running a 6.87 or 7 inch /whatever crank pulley.....run the 8 inch...allowing you to run a larger blower pulley resulting in more contact surface for the belt. so i went with this cog set up. they say the cog makes much more midrange power.....but i suppose with my 725 rwhp and god only knows how much torque.....being only street driven.....i can afford to lose some power and gain traction. i can light the tires @ a 100 mph roll.i mainly only street drive it.hmmm.....anyone wanna buy a cog set up? haha i don't know what to do.....i have a feeling bracket deflection isn't the problem seeing as the belt alwyas stays on....just pulls all the teeth off the belt.how come rnengade guys make over 20 psi boost on an 8 rib....i suppose the answer is that 8 inch crank pulley:guess:
    They make a 10 rib 8". :D I have one. :party:
    89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:





    Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D

  12. #12
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    i just spoke to someone and he told me to go with the 8 rib renegade...what vortech calls their improved traction profile. according to this guy the company that makes the 10 rib is different than the one that makes 8 rib...and the belts for the 8 rib are much better...i think i will sell my cog and buy 8 rib 8" ,3.15"
    Last edited by regattacoupe; 04-12-2005 at 12:58 PM.
    1993 LX Hatchback
    408, Canfield Heads, Trick Flow Intake, Ys trim, Gen 7, PA-Super Leaker C-4,3.27 diff, 83lbs inj,kooks 2" into 3.5 collectors, Dr. gas 3" X pipe,Bassani 3" cat back,Second Street Speed Twin in-tank Bosch,Solid roller cam,Jesel Shaft mount rockers,VP C-16,Mallory HyFire667c

    10 # 10 rib TKO=625 rwhp
    17 # COG C-4=650 rwhp
    NEW SETUP(porting and valvetrain mods)
    18 # COG C-4=725 rwhp
    ...about my horsepower curve...well there isn't any curve....kinda straight up...then straight across...hahaha
    1 gallon VP C-16 $8.50
    1 supercharger COG belt $110
    Smoking the tires from a 100mph roll $PRICELESS

  13. #13
    Senior SCH Member MeJay Racing's Avatar
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    The trick with the cogs is alignment. I remember Spence Hart helping a guy name Andrew with this same issue. http://www.superchargerhelp.com/show...&highlight=cog I know I made (and make) sure mine are straight. Never had a problem. As a side note I am using the HKS race blowoff with 75/32 and 75/29 pullies. With the 75/29 was seeing 16#s and haven't tried the 75/29 but prior owner was seeing 18-20 (through the mondo cooler).
    Drag Racing...Where being the quickest is considered a good thing. :D

  14. #14
    SCH Moderator BLOWNBY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainestreetking
    i just spoke to someone and he told me to go with the 8 rib renegade...what vortech calls their improved traction profile. according to this guy the company that makes the 10 rib is different than the one that makes 8 rib...and the belts for the 8 rib are much better...i think i will sell my cog and buy 8 rib 8" ,3.15"
    Get the 10 rib. You can bead blast the pullies if need to make them the improved traction. That's really all it is. Bead Blasted pullies. That's what the renegade pullies are. If your going to but new pullies and have the room get the 10 rib.
    351 "stockshort block": -Vortech T-trim (21 psi), Trick Flow Heads, Lunati Cam, Weldon fuel system, Lentech AOD., 3.55 gears, 27" Hoosier QTP's, 3500# with me

    -545 rwhp
    -10.02 @ 135mph---Is 9.99 to much to ask?:freaks:
    -1.42-- 60'
    Quote Originally Posted by regattacoupe
    Since when do they let Homo's with 700rwhp that run 11's be a SCH mod? :shocked: :obscene: :D

  15. #15
    Senior SCH Member MeJay Racing's Avatar
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    I agree about the bead blasting. But isn't the real problem is in the blower pulley? I think if you were to use the RR pulley with a SCH bracket or any other mock up to get the belt 'wrapped' better around the pulley the problem would be sovled. Course I don't spin as high as most.
    Drag Racing...Where being the quickest is considered a good thing. :D

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