Bypass valve direction questions...

[NothinButNotch]

The 1" barb directly across from the vaccum nipple goes to the discharge tube correct? And the other 1" barb on the bypass goes to the power pipe correct? And just to make sure, the small nipple should be connected to the vaccum tree correct? It looked like I had seen a few pics of others that had them running into the nipple on the side of the valve cover oil fill spout, which would be about the same thing but I wouldnt think would draw as much vaccum.

Assuming I have all the above correct, if I had my bypass valve hooked up backwards (1" barb across from vaccum nipple running to the power pipe) that would still not have anything to do with pinging problems right? I'm only asking this question b/c I am having detonation issues even with timing backed way off and a pretty rich 11:1 A/F ratio and I want to make sure that having had the bypass vavle backwards wouldnt have anything to do with this problem.

Thanks for any input, Ryan

[5150 LX]

Using the vacuum nipple as a reference, that barb should be in line with the side that connects to the s/c discharge tube and perpendicular to the side that connects to the powerpipe. It sounds like you have it hooked up correctly, if you can snap a pic of it I can tell you for sure. The vacuum line should go to a good vacuum source (tree or upper intake)

Detonation would have nothing to do with the bypass that I can think of. How are you measuring the A/F ratio? What is your timing set at? What is the condition of your balancer, maybe it is not giving you the true timing reading. What octane fuel you running? What is the overall condition of your plugs, wires, ignition system, etc?

[NothinButNotch]

Thanks 5150LX for the info. The way I described in my first paragraph of my post was NOT the way I had it hooked up. I just wanted to make sure that was the correct way before I asked anything further about detonation etc. I do still have it backwards but could not think of a way that would affect pinging regardless but just wanted to make sure.

The A/F was measured by wideband O2 on the dyno. On the dyno we had an extremely flat line of 11.8:1 A/F ratio. The timing at best power was set at right at about 17-20 total at WOT. Then we pulled it off the dyno and street tested it (w/ the wideband still hooked up) and it was knocking all over the place. To make a long story short we ended up raising the A/F ratio to about 11.0:1 and backed timing down to about 9 total at WOT from 3500 rpm up. With that timing he wrote into the chip to back timing off additional degrees as my temp. rose. That is where we left it b/c at that point we were convinced something else was wrong.

It still pings as it gets warm under part throttle and at WOT it gets real bad when warm and as you get into the boost. The balancer is set at base 10 and it should be correct or very near. I have a Romac balancer that is less than 2 years old. I have since filled up with a new tank of 93 octane fuel just to make sure I didnt have a bad tank of gas. I have an MSD 6AL ignition box, MSD 9mm plugs, a MSD Blaster coil, and Autolite 3924 plugs gapped at .035". My ignition system should not be an issue. We unplugged the MSD box just to make sure though and it still had the same issue.

I just pulled the plugs out this morning and there is nothing fishy about any of them. I was actually hoping for one to be really white showing maybe I have a coolant leak into one of the corner cylinders from a bad lower intake to head gasket match (b/c along with the blower install I replaced the lower intake to head gaskets b/c I was leaking a little coolant from the back of the L.I.). I may pull the lower intake later today or tomorrow just to make sure. A buddy mentioned possibly an upside down head gasket which would block the rear coolant passage on the head but I really dont think that is it. However, if I pull the L.I. that will be something I look into.

Well I have written quite enough for now. :) This is just aggrivating the hell out of me b/c the car seems to run great since the blower install, it even idles better than it did N/A with the chip etc, but as soon as I get into the power it detonates and I have to let out. I'm going to do a compression test later today just to make sure and maybe have a buddy at Ford run a leak down test on it for me. But at this point there is no coolant in my oil or vise-versa so who knows. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ryan

[5150 LX]

Man you got me stumped........

What's your fuel system consist of?????

[regattacoupe]

You might try the 3923 plugs gapped @ .032. I had great results with the twisted wedge heads with those plugs.

[NothinButNotch]

Well, a Ford tech buddy of mine mentioned carbon build up as a possible cause of detonation today. And seeing as how I ran pretty stinkin rich N/A with my 30 lb inj. prior to installing the SC there is a good chance I may just have a lot of carbon build up on my pistons, which is causing my pre-ignition. So with that in mind I took the advice of another Ford tech and filled my cylinders with a water/ammonia mixture and it is sitting for the night.

I know it sounds strange but he said it works better than any carb cleaner out there and is what they used to do with some veh. back in the early 90's when even the best carb cleaners run through 3 and 4 times wouldnt work. He said get the motor good and warm, pull the plugs, and then fill the cylinders through the plug holes with the mixture and let it sit over night. Then manually turn the motor over tomorrow morning before re-installing the plugs as to prevent any hydro-lock and then change the oil. Start the car up, rev it to about 2000 rpm, and hold it there for a few minutes. He said there will be lots of smoke etc but it should do a good number on any carbon buildup. I'm crossing my fingers that when I go drive it after this there is no knocking. If there is then I am running out of options.

Regattacoupe, if I am still experiencing detonation I will try going a step lower on the plugs but from what I understand the 3924's should be just fine. Thanks again for the help guys, Ryan

[5150 LX]

You can also just suck a little H2o thru a vacuum line with the motor running to remove carbon build-up......

[NothinButNotch]

Yeah I have read about doing it that way but I'd feel better about doing it without the motor running plus I was told this would be more effective (at least I hope).

[NothinButNotch]

Well no luck with the carbon buildup. :( I also put bought and put in a set of 3923 plugs today gapped at .032 and it STILL pings!!! With the 3923's it did seem to ping a little less but it still did it and it also seemed to miss or something somewhere around 4000 rpm or so. This damn car is really pissing me off! I've got one more thing to check but I have to ask some more questions first. I'm gonna put those in another post though.

[PNY PWR]

The motor/carbon needs to be hot for the water to remove it.