Kenne Bell -=Help=-

[Ray@VSK]

I recently installed my Kenne Bell 1.5L pullied for 8lbs, before the Kenne Bell I Dynoed 275 HP & 305 TQ after Kenne Bell I dynoed 355 HP & 440 TQ :) then after driving it for a month I said hmm wonder what It'd run like with a bigger cam so a few $ & a few hours later I had installed a b303 cam & man did that cam sound awesome when I first started it up but to my amazement after taking it for a spin I had lost alot of power & my boost guage was reading two times as high as it was supposed to so I said hmm maybe I installed the cam wrong & tore it back down & bought a degreeing kit & degreed it to my suprise it was already degreed in perfect & need not touched so I said maybe it's the cam so I ordered a different cam "after doing alot of research & talking to alot of pro's including Kenne Bell" cam get's here "almost same specs as stock that was origionally in there" install, fire it up & it sounds stock again, but hey what do I care aslong as it runs good "tired of messing with cams @ this point" welp guess what it's doing the exact same thing as the b cam did, terrible responce, no power, low vacuum & two times the boost.

Before cam,


After cam,


As you see by installing this cam I not only have a weird boost problem but I lost roughly 50 HP & 100 ft lbs of TQ :shrug:

[regattacoupe]

WOW. How are you degreeing the cams in? What cam did you put in it again?

[Ray@VSK]

I used a Summit degree kit using the intake & exhaust centerline method wich wound up being dot to dot, I'm using the CompCams XE 270 HR-12 But it did the same thing with the B303 aswell, do you think with all the extra lift I'm getting now that my stock lifters might be crapping out ?

[regattacoupe]

How are the springs in the heads? The 270 camm has 544 lift? Which is probably on the high side of 580 lift with 1.7's and give the cam a faster ramp so yeah that can impact lifters an springs.

Sounds like you have an awesome combo and you just have a bug or two to work out.

[Ray@VSK]

Actually that cam has .544 lift that's including 1.7 rockers but as for my springs they are brand new from ford when I bought the heads & ford said .544 lift is fine so you think it's the lifters & I just can't hear em ?

[flyin_hawaiin]

the first thing I noticed is that the BEFORE cam has STD numbers and the AFTER cam dyno graph is SAE corrected.... you need to go back ot the ORIGINAL dyno and have them redyno the car... STD #s can read anywhere from 1% to 20% more then SAE numbers.... thats like comparing apples and oranges..

good luck

bob kurgan

[Ray@VSK]

No the car lost over 50 HP & 100 TQ, it's a noticable difference & SAE & STD are so little difference it really don't matter, I had em even switch it over to STD & the numbers were only like 1 or 2 horsepower different, how does the different dynoes explain why my boost guage is showing 14lbs of boost when I should only be seeing 6-7 or why I can barely even get a second gear scratch when I used to be able to break em in third just tapping the gas, I've been to 3 different dynoes about 20 different times using both STD & SAE & the numbers are always same reguardless where I go to, using a DynoJet or Mustang Dyno there always within a few #'s different.

[Brcuda]

You should have stayed with the stock cam. When I was running my Kenne Bell set up, the stock cam ran fine. 11.90 @117.40 on BFGs. When I talk with Mr. Bell on changing cams he told me it would really not help alot, but if I still wanted to buy one he would sell me one.

[Ray@VSK]

Well I found the reason for the high boost, crank pulley that was on was too big, still like crap though, think I'm gonna try the Steeda 19 cam it has a 115 lobe seperation "more similar to stock".

I wanted more power, stock cam I only had like 355HP I was trying to max out the block getting close to 425, I was going to put in a cam & bump up the boost, I should easily be able to do with out getting even better heads or new block & pistons ya know..