Thicker Blower Bracket

[slowfive0]

Has anyone had any experience going to a thicker blower bracket on the NOVI 2000 Passenger Side Mount blowers? I don't want any flex as I'm going to be pushing this blower eventually. Thanks.

[regattacoupe]

I doubt you'll have any trouble out of the Novi Hardware. It is as good as it gets.

[slowfive0]

Agreed! Just wondering if anyone has made a thicker bracket? I know one guy who was going 9.0's with a passenger side mount kit and said he had to brace the blower to get it to hold a belt. Thanks.

I doubt you'll have any trouble out of the Novi Hardware. It is as good as it gets.

[Hustler]

I've turned the blower pretty hard, I don't think you'll have a problem with bracket flex.

[slowfive0]

Cool! That is good news. How hard were you turning it? Ricky Best said that these blowers are very strong, but don't take to overspinning like the Vortechs. He recommended not spinning it more then 6,000 - 7,000 over max impellar rpm. 55,000 is the max right? Mine is 3.54 step up ratio.

He said some of the guys out there are overspinning the Vortechs (YS's) like 15,000 over!!

I've turned the blower pretty hard, I don't think you'll have a problem with bracket flex.

[Hustler]

Ya, they push them pretty hard in renegade. There is a guy on here who blew his apart, and he spun it to 62377. I pullied mine for roughly 59,300 so that if I'm a lil slow on shifting I have some leeway. I have his pulley combination and RPM he spun it to on the "rough boost" post. It shows the head unit was destroyed. I left it on there as a lesson to how far you can push it. Ricky's advice is right there where Kelly Herring's suggestion was around 60k absolute max. Either way its your decision, but it could be a costly one. While most of the blowers come within very close tolerances of each other before they leave the door, taking into consideration the varying outside temperatures, engine temperatures, etc., every blower will have a different critical failure point. Most of the guys pushing the limits have atleast some kind of factory backing or sponsorship if the thing ends up as a complete loss, so they aren't sitting there with nothing at the end of the day.

The last pull on the dyno we had was roughly 51684 @ 6800 rpm. Definitely not overspinning the blower, but I was working out rewriting the fuel map from scratch and finding almost 100whp from not enough trans fluid. We started out making honestly around 250whp from the first pull to 590 by the 7th pull, after finally figuring out the trans fluid was low. I ended it there because the hourly bill on the dyno was adding up and I had some things to tweak still. I hadn't even touched the timing on the dyno. That and we couldn't get the inductive pickup to work, so we were tuning off MPH and what rpm it said incar. So once I finish the fuel map, add some timing, I already regapped the plugs, and turn it all the way to 7800 rpm I think it will pickup some power. This is with a 308 with 8.6:1 compression btw. I was also doing back to back dyno runs, so it was fairly heat soaked by the last run.

The newer passenger side novi 2000 kits have dual tensioners which lessen belt deflection. The brackets are also thicker than competitors brackets where you predominantly hear about bracket flex issues. Though if you do have problems you can fabricate a strut brace, not to be confused with a brace that mounts to your strut tower. I think HPM a company no longer in business built a brace for vortech's which stabalized the head unit via a brace to the strut tower. A strut brace is something vortech sells for its larger blowers that can be mounted to the vortech pullies which stabalizes the pullies from being pulled toward each other when you tension the piss out of the belt. I saw someone fabricate this for a Passenger side Novi 2000 on the web at one point in time.

[slowfive0]

Thanks for the great post! :D

I have mine pullied to the same as you (59,XXX). I have yet to run it though and I"m just trying to get my ducks in a row (WFC is coming quick)!

I have a 35 mm setup with the polychain belt. Considering a 50mm crank pulley and tensioner (Already have RCD blower pulleys that are 50mm).

Isn't your setup 50mm? Did you ever try the 30-35mm stuff and at what boost levels?

I would like to get this car in the very low 9's or even high 8's. That's a big goal....

Ya, they push them pretty hard in renegade. There is a guy on here who blew his apart, and he spun it to 62377. I pullied mine for roughly 59,300 so that if I'm a lil slow on shifting I have some leeway. I have his pulley combination and RPM he spun it to on the "rough boost" post. It shows the head unit was destroyed. I left it on there as a lesson to how far you can push it. Ricky's advice is right there where Kelly Herring's suggestion was around 60k absolute max. Either way its your decision, but it could be a costly one. While most of the blowers come within very close tolerances of each other before they leave the door, taking into consideration the varying outside temperatures, engine temperatures, etc., every blower will have a different critical failure point. Most of the guys pushing the limits have atleast some kind of factory backing or sponsorship if the thing ends up as a complete loss, so they aren't sitting there with nothing at the end of the day.

The last pull on the dyno we had was roughly 51684 @ 6800 rpm. Definitely not overspinning the blower, but I was working out rewriting the fuel map from scratch and finding almost 100whp from not enough trans fluid. We started out making honestly around 250whp from the first pull to 590 by the 7th pull, after finally figuring out the trans fluid was low. I ended it there because the hourly bill on the dyno was adding up and I had some things to tweak still. I hadn't even touched the timing on the dyno. That and we couldn't get the inductive pickup to work, so we were tuning off MPH and what rpm it said incar. So once I finish the fuel map, add some timing, I already regapped the plugs, and turn it all the way to 7800 rpm I think it will pickup some power. This is with a 308 with 8.6:1 compression btw. I was also doing back to back dyno runs, so it was fairly heat soaked by the last run.

The newer passenger side novi 2000 kits have dual tensioners which lessen belt deflection. The brackets are also thicker than competitors brackets where you predominantly hear about bracket flex issues. Though if you do have problems you can fabricate a strut brace, not to be confused with a brace that mounts to your strut tower. I think HPM a company no longer in business built a brace for vortech's which stabalized the head unit via a brace to the strut tower. A strut brace is something vortech sells for its larger blowers that can be mounted to the vortech pullies which stabalizes the pullies from being pulled toward each other when you tension the piss out of the belt. I've saw someone fabricate this for a Passenger side Novi 2000 on the web at one point in time.

[Hustler]

Never did try the 35mm setup, I had it all bought and then a year later before I got the whole thing together I talked with Bob Kurgan and told him my plans to turn the motor close to 8000 rpm and he advised the 50mm. I had also seen a local car run a 35mm setup and they mentioned snapping a few belts which did some hood damage. Not saying the 35mm don't work, seen lots of people who have no problems with them. It just gets pricey going to a 50mm you gotta get the 50mm idlers, the crank pulley, and unless you bought the RCD blower pulley you gotta get that too. Then the belts are more expensive. I offset the cost of it all by selling the 35mm cog and my 10 rib setup. I have a single tensioner/idler setup so it was a lil cheaper than a dual idler.

Here's a pic of the 50mm passenger mount.



I think your goal is definitely achieveable, given you have a suspension that can hook all that power. Keep us updated and post pics when you get some time. I enjoy seeing what other people have done, and I know others here would also. Since I'm still jobless and contemplating going back to school my lil project has hit a snails pace. So I have to live through other people :)

[slowfive0]

Your setup is sweet! :teeth: 8000 rpm!!!!! Damn! :animal:

I do have the RCD blower pulleys and I guess I will try the 35 mm stuff and see what happens. My current pulley configuration is 78 crank and 31 blower. I'm hoping the bigger surface (more wrap/less severe bend) will help the belt survive. Plus I'm only turning 6700.

I eventually plan to go solid roller and spin it to 7500. I guess we'll see.

I have Dave Zimmerman's suspension (Team Z). Awesome shop---he just finished up my cage too (10pt and through the floor subs). I think the suspension will work---I just need to get it together and do some testing. Will post the results later in May/June. Take care :happy:

Never did try the 35mm setup, I had it all bought and then a year later before I got the whole thing together I talked with Bob Kurgan and told him my plans to turn the motor close to 8000 rpm and he advised the 50mm. I had also seen a local car run a 35mm setup and they mentioned snapping a few belts which did some hood damage. Not saying the 35mm don't work, seen lots of people who have no problems with them. It just gets pricey going to a 50mm you gotta get the 50mm idlers, the crank pulley, and unless you bought the RCD blower pulley you gotta get that too. Then the belts are more expensive. I offset the cost of it all by selling the 35mm cog and my 10 rib setup. I have a single tensioner/idler setup so it was a lil cheaper than a dual idler.

Here's a pic of the 50mm passenger mount.



I think your goal is definitely achieveable, given you have a suspension that can hook all that power. Keep us updated and post pics when you get some time. I enjoy seeing what other people have done, and I know others here would also. Since I'm still jobless and contemplating going back to school my lil project has hit a snails pace. So I have to live through other people :)

[slowfive0]

On a side note, I noticed that neither your blower or crank pulleys are gated? Just the tensioner. Any problems with belt alignment or belts walking? thanks again.

Your setup is sweet! :teeth: 8000 rpm!!!!! Damn! :animal:

I do have the RCD blower pulleys and I guess I will try the 35 mm stuff and see what happens. My current pulley configuration is 78 crank and 31 blower. I'm hoping the bigger surface (more wrap/less severe bend) will help the belt survive. Plus I'm only turning 6700.

I eventually plan to go solid roller and spin it to 7500. I guess we'll see.

I have Dave Zimmerman's suspension (Team Z). Awesome shop---he just finished up my cage too (10pt and through the floor subs). I think the suspension will work---I just need to get it together and do some testing. Will post the results later in May/June. Take care :happy:

[Hustler]

Thanks for the kudos, sounds like you are set. Kinda hard to tell from the photos but the crank pulley is gated. Blower pulley is an RCD piece and is not.

[slowfive0]

Does it have to be gated? I've heard that you're supposed to have one gated (crank or blower). neither of mine are. Do you know? Thanks again :)

Thanks for the kudos, sounds like you are set. Kinda hard to tell from the photos but the crank pulley is gated. Blower pulley is an RCD piece and is not.

[Hustler]

Seems all the cog kits I've seen atleast one was gated. I've seen the belt walk a lil atleast up on the blower pulley when revving the motor. At the dyno I was seeing a lil belt dust, not sure if I need to tension the belt some more or what. But the edges were obviously worn on the belt after the dyno pulls, so I think it was moving around.

[slowfive0]

Thanks for the info!

Seems all the cog kits I've seen atleast one was gated. I've seen the belt walk a lil atleast up on the blower pulley when revving the motor. At the dyno I was seeing a lil belt dust, not sure if I need to tension the belt some more or what. But the edges were obviously worn on the belt after the dyno pulls, so I think it was moving around.