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SN-93 Help
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Thread: SN-93 Help

  1. #1
    Junior SCH Member
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    SN-93 Help

    Ok, heres the deal... I supposedly got my SN-93 head unit rebuilt... I strapped it on and it made a horrible screeching noise. What do you think it was ??? I had it full of type-F tranny fluid like it says. Also the dipstick will not seat all the way. Seems like the neck is too low. Does it sound like the bearings are shot ??? And the belt has like very little deflection. It's tight... This is on a 95 Lightning btw. Not sure what I should do. Spring for the complete rebuild kit from Paradise or get the seals, bearings and the balls ??? Any help would be great on this one. I'm at a loss on what to do. Or... Should i go ahead and get the SN-2000 and sell the other one ???

    Thanks,
    Jeff

  2. #2
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    The ball race is tight against the impeller shaft and the impeller shaft has a chunk in it not allowing the balls to rotate. Rebuilt wrong if it was rebuilt but my guess broken and never repaired. You need new balls,impeller shaft and maybe new races.

  3. #3
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    It still turns freely without binding, so no clue WTF is going on with it. The Paradise re-build kit is like $425 on E-bay or i could have them do it for $700. I'm a fairly decent mechanic, just never re-built a supercharger before. And come to find out the guy who re-built is no where to be found. Imagine that... LOL. Any help would be great

  4. #4
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    Dismantle it, carefully noting how it came apart and where everything is. You can then look and see what the jackass effed up. It is really extremely easy. Any specific problems you run into along the way, I'm sure one of us that has done it can help you.

    Screeching noises, I'd be betting on the wheel hitting the housing, which is bad, if it has occurred.

    F=MA

  5. #5
    Senior SCH Member pavement pounde's Avatar
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    If have some pictures that could help you.
    I rebuild the Sn 93 myself last year, Make sure you use Locktide on the 2 races witch I dident and learned the hardway.

    http://photobucket.com/albums/v129/p...ton%20rebuild/
    Greets, Marco
    '91 Chevy 496SS, Edelbrock Pro-flo 2 injection, alu. GMPP heads, blowercam, coolmist water injection, turbo in the works.
    *VIDEO* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZOdXg0TOdw

  6. #6
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    Well just a quick question... How in the world do you get the impeller off ??? I got the screw out of it. Is it supposed to slide out ??? What about the back plate ??? Pry it out ??? I think I know already what is wrong with it. Seems it was just thrown back together and thats it. I have some tranny fluid coming out where you attach the pipe that goes to the throttle body. So definitely seals are shot. Probably bearings as well.

    Those pics helped me alot till I got to where I didn't want to start prying on crap. I really can't tell if I have the upgraded impeller or not. It looks close to the purple one in that photo but mine is grey like the one you pulled off. No clue if it is the upgraded one or not. Thanks for the help. You guys really are helping me out... :)

  7. #7
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    One other question... How does the front come off ??? I can't see anyway for it to come off... I have the impeller off and the pulley and the back plate. Other than that it seems like I'm stuck... Looking at the front there are 2 keyways for the keys and 1 slot in a bearing looking thing. is this supposed to turn ??? And the front seal on mine is green and had a very thin washer on it. I'm kinda baffled looking at this on how it's supposed to come out.
    On the back, there is a plate with a lip around it. How exactly does this come out. I really don't want to start prying it up if it doesn't need to come out. That's the only way I see it coming out is to pry it out with a screw driver or something. Man this is frustrating to say the least.
    Also upon disassembly of the back plate and taking the impeller off, I noticed that it is missing 2 washers from the impeller one on the front and rear of the impeller. On the pic of the rebuild from Marco, there should have been 2 washers on that impeller screw. That might have been the problem of it screeching but not sure. Everything still turns ok but I do hear a thunk when I spin the pulley. Seems almost as if it is missing a ball or something. I just think I'll completely rebuild it to make sure everything is right.
    When I first took it in, they told me I blew the oil pump in it. Is this possible ??? I'll have to talk to Craig about it in the morning... You guys are still helping out more than other boards !!!

  8. #8
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    Impeller is just splined to the shaft, wiggle it off.

    Back plate (you mean the big back plate with all the little capscrewsand the air inlet, right?): bump the casing lightly on the workbench to open it.

    Undo the Allen cap screws in the front of the case and the whole mess will come apart (and tumble onto the workbench if you're not careful).

    It's normal to find no washer on the impeller bolt. Some have a load spreader cap on them instead. What's more vital is, are the shims under the impeller in place and has the impeller hit the race's back plate?

    F=MA

  9. #9
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    Ok... it looks like the impeller may have just touched it... there are no grooves or anything. the whole blower is in 3 pieces but where the impeller was, it seems there are like 6 long screws/bolts that are pretty tight. Where the heads of the bolts would be, there are those little Paxton nippled covers. How do you get at the heads of the screws/bolts ??? I'm very lost at this point... Can't get to them at all unless I vise-grip them and try to unscrew them that way. Definitly do not want to mess-up the threads by doing that.

  10. #10
    Senior SCH Member pavement pounde's Avatar
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    I know about all those little Paxton nippled covers, luckely Graig put these in the rebuilt kit aswell.
    You can get them out with a vise-gripp, they just have an O-ring around them to prevent leaking or just drill a hole in them and pry them out with someting sharp, You can do without them, I still have them of and they do not leak, becouse the large bolts are tight enough.
    The impeller that is instalt in the picture with the wrench on it is the improofd impeller, it slightly more curfed then the stock one.
    Greets, Marco
    '91 Chevy 496SS, Edelbrock Pro-flo 2 injection, alu. GMPP heads, blowercam, coolmist water injection, turbo in the works.
    *VIDEO* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZOdXg0TOdw

  11. #11
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    Ahhhh... so they are just covers then... cool... and my impeller looks like the purple one. My vanes near the center are alot more curved than the one you are holding. So I guess I have the improved one. Up here in Idaho almost 1 mile up the max boost I saw on it was 5.9 PSI. This was off of my BBK Boost/Retard control module I have. Guess I'll be taking it all apart tonight then to see what the damage is.

  12. #12
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    OK... OMG.. If I ever find this guy.... First thing is, I think he snapped the back ring off of the round plate that has a seal on the back of it. There was no big O-ring seal on this piece at all. I had one big O-ring seal on this blower. That's it !!! WTF happened to the other one ??? When I finally got this thing apart there was this huge gouge on the impeller shaft and the rear race came out. I had to pry it a little bit to get it out completely. The front race has a roll-pin in it and looks great. The rear race is in awesome shape just seems it was spinning with the balls. It had no pin in it even tho it there is a spot for one. Guess I'll have to Loc-tite it like Marco said. To me, it looked like the race was actually moving about 1/4" up and down while spinning with the balls. Checked it for out of round and it seems fine. The balls are in good shape, little minute scratches and no gouges or gashes or anything. So I might be able to re-use those. Definitely need a new impeller shaft, washers for the impeller bolt, front and rear seals and both big O-rings. Man this is definitely easier than I thought, once I got it apart. Seems like the actual bearing on the shaft are good no binding spins easy.
    Marco, I noticed you have a screen on the little arm that sticks out of the assembly... did that come in the re-build kit ??? And what's up with that spring around tht arm ??? Do I need that ??? I don't have it but looks like I have the holes for one. Could you list what came in the re-build kit ??? Since it looks like I don't need some of the stuff.. might be cheaper to go the piece meal route...

  13. #13
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    Well after looking at what all is included in the Paradise Wheels complete kit, looks that this is the way to go. I'll be posting some pics up soon so others can benefit from my mistakes.. I'm still super pissed tho that the back ring on the rear seal plate looks broke and there was no O-ring behind it. I think that's why there was tranny fluid in the track.
    A few other things I noticed during the disassembly:

    1. It was way easier to drill out the little Paxton nippled bolt covers.... :D
    2. Take lots of pic's.... I mean like 2 of everything to make sure...
    3. Helps to have access to a full shop to do some of the stuff that you can't do at home... I.E. a big *** vise to hold stuff while you pound it out.
    4. The front seal and rear seal look like a serious pain to get exactly right... Hope I get the right, if not gonna be pissed...
    5. Easier to replace all the parts with new and keep the old parts safe... Just in case, ya never know :P

    Well as soon as the kit is on the way and I get it into my greedy little hands... I'll be posting lotsa pics so ya'll can see exactly the crappy re-build some people will do just to get money.

    Total time spent tearing the Paxton apart: To be determined
    Cost of replacement parts: $425 plus shipping
    Getting the Paxton to run right because you did it YOURSELF: PRICELESS
    For all your parts needs there definitely is Mastercard !!!

    On-going Paxton re-build....

  14. #14
    Senior SCH Member pavement pounde's Avatar
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    I acualy don't know why that spring is there, The busted VR4 I bought for parts did not have that spring bud I thought it would do no harm either.
    Aldough the balls seem to look ok, they are propably not perfect round any more.
    The rebuilt kit is very complete, you must tell Graig what type of race you have, the pin or dowel type.
    And be sure to use an oilcooler when your done rebuilding !
    Your Paxton wil thank you for that.
    I forgot to mension that I wrote a litle story on the 454SS board about the rebuilt of my Paxton perhaps you can find some tips in there: http://www.454ss.com/Articles_new/paxrebuild.asp

    This was all done before I got to know this board.
    Good luck !
    Greets, Marco
    '91 Chevy 496SS, Edelbrock Pro-flo 2 injection, alu. GMPP heads, blowercam, coolmist water injection, turbo in the works.
    *VIDEO* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZOdXg0TOdw

  15. #15
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    Hey J-Venomos! I can help you out! I do rebuild of the unit and have 15 yrs under me and emails of people's unit I just did. If you go to paridice wheel he not going to touch it for under $750. I can do better on the $$$ and be done right. Any way let me know. You can email me at saleen@optonline.net. Thanks!

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