Looking for Advice and Recommendations

[MillCreekMafia]

(1990 5.0 hatch)
So i've been sitting on my Vortech S-trim, 30# injectors, 70mm C&L MAF, smog delete, a/c delete, bbk long tube headers, H-pipe, flows, msd btm, 190lph in tank pump, and the t-rex inline, fmu, and the recalibration kit so i can use it with my 30#, and a few other things that i can't think of right at this moment. I'm about to finally order the Edelbrock Performer RPM II intake, and the bbk 75mm to go with it. I still have my stock everything, down to air box. What are you opinions on what i have, is anyone running the rpm II? and is the 75mm a good choice over the 70mm? I want to can the btm and get the msd 6al with btm, so thats to come in the furture, but i'm trying to get this stuff put on right now at the moment. i'm also looking into a getting a SPEC clutch as well. I'm more than likely going to have to mount my battery in my hatch, though i really don't want to do that. anyone have a good link to bat. relocation kits? So i'm going to try and get this stuff installed hopefully within the next 2 weeks, then i'll have to take it to the dyno and have it tuned so i don't blow to pieces :freaks: . I'm really just looking for advice and any tips before i jump into this, as this is my first supercharged application and installation.

[BLOWNBY]

Get the MSD 6BTM. I should have all the features of the 6AL and BTM in one unit. Consolidation!! If you get a spec cluth get the stage two. I had the three and will be too much for your setup. Moroso makes a box that is approved, but $110. You will also need a shutoff switch. You will want 2 guage or 1/0 wire to run up front from the battery as well. I used 1/0 stereo wiring.

[MillCreekMafia]

Get the MSD 6BTM. I should have all the features of the 6AL and BTM in one unit. Consolidation!! If you get a spec cluth get the stage two. I had the three and will be too much for your setup. Moroso makes a box that is approved, but $110. You will also need a shutoff switch. You will want 2 guage or 1/0 wire to run up front from the battery as well. I used 1/0 stereo wiring.

yeah i want to do that, but thats $300 some dollars that i don't really want to spend right now, but i'm gonna end up having to. thanks for the advice on the spec. i was thinking about the 3 but i just installed the 1 on a customers car and that little guys is nasty in itself. i will need a shutoff switch for the track or?? not familiar with why this is sorry lol. also hopefully if this goes through i found a guy selling new rpm II intake, 70mm tb, and performer heads as well for 1400, so i'm going to pick those up to top myself off.

[BLOWNBY]

Yeah, a shutoff switch is required if you move the battery to the rear.

[MillCreekMafia]

alright, gotcha, i did not know that... what do you think a good cam for this setup would be?

[BLOWNBY]

Honestly, I have no idea for a cam. I let my dyno guy decide for me. Way to complex for me to keep up on.

I will stick with the basic questions like..."do I really need a switch?" LOL

[regattacoupe]

TFS#1 would be hard to beat. Comp has some great blower/nitrous cams but they are only $75 cheaper than getting a custom cam.

[fanglemeister]

In my opinion the RPM-II intake and 75mm TB are just a little too big for your stock headed combo. I would go with a standard Performer intake, or possibly one of the other popular "street" intakes. These will make much better low and midrange torque, which you need because there's no boost down there, yet still pull well to 5500-6000 rpm. The boost will take care of the top end, don't worry about that.

And keep the cam small too; a Steeda #18 or #19 is just about perfect for this combo. That TFS #1 cam Brent mentioned is a little bigger, but still pretty good for stock heads with boost. No need for the expense of a custom cam with this combo, IMO.

Last bit of advice, if you are keeping your stock heads on it, do yourself a BIG favor and get some good valvepsrings installed so it will rev cleanly to 6000+ rpm.

[MillCreekMafia]

CHANGE OF PLANS.. just picked myself up a set of 6037 edelbrock performer heads, rpm II intake, and 70mm edlb. throttle body. thanks to all of you for the advice, sorry about the change of plans, but i'm just so unsure of what i want to do, and at the same time i'm trying to get this thing together before i miss summer. could you all re-evaluate your responses :weird:

In my opinion the RPM-II intake and 75mm TB are just a little too big for your stock headed combo. I would go with a standard Performer intake, or possibly one of the other popular "street" intakes. These will make much better low and midrange torque, which you need because there's no boost down there, yet still pull well to 5500-6000 rpm. The boost will take care of the top end, don't worry about that.

And keep the cam small too; a Steeda #18 or #19 is just about perfect for this combo. That TFS #1 cam Brent mentioned is a little bigger, but still pretty good for stock heads with boost. No need for the expense of a custom cam with this combo, IMO.

Last bit of advice, if you are keeping your stock heads on it, do yourself a BIG favor and get some good valvepsrings installed so it will rev cleanly to 6000+ rpm.

[blown1989saleen]

CHANGE OF PLANS.. just picked myself up a set of 6037 edelbrock performer heads, rpm II intake, and 70mm edlb. throttle body. thanks to all of you for the advice, sorry about the change of plans, but i'm just so unsure of what i want to do, and at the same time i'm trying to get this thing together before i miss summer. could you all re-evaluate your responses :weird:

its good to see youve stopped trying to get that BBK intake, thats a good combo and will go well with the S-trim but dont rely to heavily on the 30s with an FMU, Id recommend stepping up to 50# injectors and ditch the FMU. as far as a clutch Id recommend either a Spec stage 2 or stage 3, if you plan running slicks at all go with the stage 3, it is very aggressive and kinda off/on when it comes to street use, but it is the toughest clutch Ive EVER run, my stage 3 is over 2yrs old and still grabs like its new. as for the battery box, I agree the Moroso is an excellent choice and is also legal for NHRA use, I used a Moroso heavy duty switch and 1/0 welding cable for my solenoid run and 2ga welding cable for the alternator run.

[regattacoupe]

That sounds like a potent setup. I'd get pretty aggressive with a cam for that intake.