The Eibach drag launch kit comes with an air bag to preload the rear passenger side since the cars axle flexes that way.Originally Posted by stevieturbo
The Eibach drag launch kit comes with an air bag to preload the rear passenger side since the cars axle flexes that way.
351 "stockshort block": -Vortech T-trim (21 psi), Trick Flow Heads, Lunati Cam, Weldon fuel system, Lentech AOD., 3.55 gears, 27" Hoosier QTP's, 3500# with me
-545 rwhp
-10.02 @ 135mph---Is 9.99 to much to ask?:freaks:
-1.42-- 60'
Typically a drag spring package will lower the car slightly, and include softer rate than stock front springs (stock 4-cyl springs are a popular cheap mod) and also two different rates at each rear spring -- the idea being that you can then fine-tune the right rear spring rate with the included air spring. The air spring is not required with adjustable spring perches &/or adjustable rear swaybar -- it's a cheaper route than either of those preload methods.
Chris
How do you pre-load a 4link setup ( with coilovers ) ? And how do you determine how much you need ?
Whole books have been written on the topic, not enough space here to answer thoroughly.
http://www.rjracecars.com/cgi-bin/sq...ex.cgi?pid=994
This is the Rick Jones Chassis tuning guide, should help you out a bunch.
Chris
Well here is what my pulley destruction looked like!:freaks: This mishap also turned my 10 rib setup to an 8 rib setup as well.
351 "stockshort block": -Vortech T-trim (21 psi), Trick Flow Heads, Lunati Cam, Weldon fuel system, Lentech AOD., 3.55 gears, 27" Hoosier QTP's, 3500# with me
-545 rwhp
-10.02 @ 135mph---Is 9.99 to much to ask?:freaks:
-1.42-- 60'
What happened ?
The bolt that holds the tensioner plate backed out some how and hit the idler pulley and then must have backed itslef all the way out (considering I just tightened them up before that pass). It was pinched between the plate and the pulley and chewed about an 1/2" off the idler. My 10 rib belts is now also an 8 rib belt.
Not sure what caused this as I tightened it up just befor that pass. However, the clearance was tight with that 10 rib idler.
351 "stockshort block": -Vortech T-trim (21 psi), Trick Flow Heads, Lunati Cam, Weldon fuel system, Lentech AOD., 3.55 gears, 27" Hoosier QTP's, 3500# with me
-545 rwhp
-10.02 @ 135mph---Is 9.99 to much to ask?:freaks:
-1.42-- 60'
ouch.....
Some thread lock might be in order next time.
Yeah, problem is those bolts are constantly being tightened & lossened to tighten the braket. Especially at the track.
351 "stockshort block": -Vortech T-trim (21 psi), Trick Flow Heads, Lunati Cam, Weldon fuel system, Lentech AOD., 3.55 gears, 27" Hoosier QTP's, 3500# with me
-545 rwhp
-10.02 @ 135mph---Is 9.99 to much to ask?:freaks:
-1.42-- 60'
I agree. And it sounds like it'd be more of a drag radial sidewall friendly setting. I think with the QTP's you could tweak around the situation because the sidewall is forgiving, but for a drag radial car leaving like banzai on a T-brake everything needs to get along pretty well to 60' where you want. Sorry to hear about the FFW carnage steve. My friend has true street-itis as well as he's never ran well @ one. He was having N20 issues though.
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
The only part I have left steve from my vortech is a custom made 10-rib tensioner pulley if you need it. It's a pretty nice piece. I'll cruise up and hang out if you need it.
I'm waiting on my pistons to come in and then i'll be back on the road. I think it's going to run pretty good too. :teeth:
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
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