Car evidently originally built by Ronnie Sox & Co. Lots of chassis supports and whatnot. Came originally with a SN89 blower that blew up. Decided to change to NOVI2000. Trouble is it's too tall mounted and hits the hood. Paxton says never heard of it happening, sent entire photo essay. They did admit their new top oil inlet jet can be a problem and they sent me a different one. Manuals online are different from the one sent with the kit.
Question: anyone have brackets that drop the head another 1" or so? I am about to CMM the Paxton brackets and modify them a bit lowering the smog pump and the alternator. Any suggestions for eliminating the smog pump? It would help if I could get some room back...
thx
Last edited by captainfrito; 07-31-2005 at 08:54 PM.
It sounds like motor mounts are the new urethane style because they lift the engine 3/4-1" and people been having the problem that don't have a cowl style hood.
Many thanks for the help with the motor mounts. The whole car has been significantly lowered already, has hardly any ground crlearance, and I'm worried about creating other problems (header clearance, oil pan clearance, etc) but it's probably the simplest thing to try. any suggestions on new mounts, or just use stock ones? (I'm not sure exactly what mounts are on the car, lots of undocumented mods to this car)
Any recommendations on a flex host that I can use between the S/C output and the throttle body inlet? The rigid one that came with the kit interferes with the Sox shock tower brace so even if I fix the clearance issue with the hood I've got that to deal with. I've posted few pics hope they help.
thx again.
Also, anything I can do to up the output of the stock SN89? it would be much easier to rebuild that one and put it back in.
Last edited by captainfrito; 07-31-2005 at 08:53 PM.
The car was built by Ronnie Sox for road work and I pound it. It handles like it's on rails and I love eating Porsches since they're always old lawyers that underappreciate trailing throttle oversteer. I keep the local Gendarmes alert. Next time I get life.
Most of the mods were frame mods, though the S/C was a nice touch. I've changed the intake, injectors, heads and cam. It was all there until the SN89 blew and I thought -- naively that I could get a NOVI2000 in there. I still need an inch just to clear the hood comfortably.
Okay, well, it looks like the smog pump has got to go. I'm having the Paxton plates CMM'd and then I'm gonna CNC new plates from 6061-T6 billet. The plan is to move the blower "down and in" and the alternator "up and out", basically filling the space left open by the deleted smog pump. I can also get rid of a lot of hose nonsense, and provide a much roomier engine compartment. I think when I'm done, I'll post the CAD file for the both the original and modified brackets.
I'm undecided whether I should use an idler pully in place of the smog pump. It would mount to the plate similar to the blower idlers. I was thinking of using Steeda's billet pulley they made to spruce up the tensioner assembly...
I understand that plugging the two vacuum lines and removing the pump feed to the heads and capping the metal line is all there is to it. Am I missing something? Should I rethink this?
They did admit their new top oil inlet jet can be a problem and they sent me a different one. Manuals online are different from the one sent with the kit.
...do you happent o have the part number for this new oil inlet jet? how much was it? did it help at all?
The "new" inlet is really the original inlet they designed. The goofy tall one with the elbow is from a "parts list consolidation" initiative with Vortech. The blower still hits the hood. I need another 1/2" or so. Before it was off by almost 2". But with all the frame mods to this car, it's probably not Paxton's fault. It seems the top oil inlet system fails when folks use urethane motor mounts. The only issue I have with Paxton is their "tell someone who cares" attitude. It's hard to get their attention as a little guy who just plunked down $3500 on their blower kit. I should have just rebuilt the original SN89 that was in there for $300.
Could try using lowered motor mounts, HPM used to make some solids, make sure your blower is clocked enough. I ran into the same problem I figured a cowl hood would help, but it still nicks it. It was fine before I went to upgrade to some NAPA motor mounts and then it wouldn't fit like the problem you are having. I had a saleen strut tower brace, but it got taken off, I have only seen a few Vortech setups that still use some aftermarket braces, most were modified.
Thx. Based on where on the hood it was hitting I would have to blister it and I'm unwilling to do that. I'm having new mount plates CNC'd that allows me to drop the blower and raise the alternator, which basically requires the removal of the smog pump. All the other options basically suxored. I'll be posting the SolidWorks drawings and some pics if there's any interest.
I don't see why not, but I'd like to hang on to it for a bit. The reason is I have to make custom mounting plates and move /everything/ around. It looks like the smog pump has to go, but thhen I can move the blower down and in and the alternator can move up a bit. Belts should be interesting to find. Should have simply stuck with the SN89 rig that was in there and upgraded the blower to a higher output version. Anyway I want to make sure everything fits before I start giving away bits and pieces.
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