On the speed of the supercharger, since peak horsepower on a 5.0 is 5600 rpm the car will still be under the 39,500 rpm limit if that is a concern with a 6" crank and 3.75" blower pulley size.
On the speed of the supercharger, since peak horsepower on a 5.0 is 5600 rpm the car will still be under the 39,500 rpm limit if that is a concern with a 6" crank and 3.75" blower pulley size.
wellwhat set up should i put on for pulleys? i know the bottom is a 6 the kid said and i got to blower ones but i think they are like 4.25 and a 4.15 or something i just went from the center across and thats what it said how to i find out the size? put a string around it and the find out? sorry about keep on being a pain in the *** lol but i like to know about things i put on the car. if u could brake down what the boost is on each set up like 4.25 and a 6 = ?psi 3.75 and 6 =?psi and etc whatever ones you know off the top of your head you can tell me and if you know a better set up with pulleys and which ones fit let me know thanks
The truth is the pulley sizes are not the only thing that controls boost but your cam and heads also can cause the PSI to read higher and lower then the pulley should produce. Restriction is positive PSI. I can have a supercharger producing 10psi at 6500 rpm and change the heads to better flowing heads and at the same 6500rpm only produce 7psi. You now have more power with the new heads producing less boost. This is why different pulleys are offered in so many sizes because when you produced 10psi using a 4" pulley you will probably need to add a 3.5" pulley to producr 10psi again. The pulleys you have are probably 4.25" and 4" because the measurement is taken at the bottom of the groves not at the top.
ok well i got that the timing is going to goto 10 i need autolite 24's gapped at .035 and type f fluid. now should i change the fuel pressure or just leave it stock?
Leave the fuel pressure, that is for the FMU to deal with for now. You need to do this in steps so you don't spend the weekend changing plugs from fouling or replaceing a head gasket from going lean.
of well this is what im going to do tell me if it is not right....
2morrow put on fmu set timing at 10 leave plugs in there now and put f fluid in and the belt on , i might put 24's cuz i think the fmu i am getting is 10:1 or can i leave that with the 19s for now? you tell me how to set it up 2morrow lol thanks
If you put the FMU made for 24lb injectors it is possible you will run out of fuel at MID and WOT. How a FMU works I better explain. The ratio is how much fuel pressure is going to increase for every 1psi. 12-1..12 lbs @ 1psi 10-1...10 lbs @ 1psi
Soooo.. at 5psi boost your going to add to your base mustang fuel pressure(38lb) additional 60psi which makes your fuel pressure at the injectors 98lbs. Now you see the importance of a fuel pump and good injectors. This is also why your injectors could go static. Static means they lock up, either open or closed.
So if you use a 10-1 and only supply the injectors 88lbs of fuel which could be under what the engine needs since the manufacture figured you would use the 24lb injectors so you need less pressure at Mid and WOT with larger injectors since they can supply the fuel. This also goes for the MAS because it is metering air just like how the FMU measures fuel. Things need to match or you will be replacing engine parts. Now the other side of the equation. Paxton, Vortech and etc. also run your car really rich with the FMU so that it can cover the supply needed with 19lb injectors no matter if you changed other engine parts. This is why you will see people after or during a Dyno test adjust fuel or change from a 12-1 to a 10-1 FMU because the engine combination may just be to rich or lean at WOT with the engine tested.
What's that ticking sound? :teeth:
Please, figure this out before you beat on the car. I'm changing head gaskets right now because of a fuel pump failure I had a while back that detonated them to death. This was a couple seconds det on an engine with premium Felpro gaskets and ARP bolts.
F=MA
well i got a new fmu tonight it is a procharger one with a knob on top to adj for injectors. anyone know how many turns it will be for 19's? or where should i start and can i set it but reving the car to see the boost then set it or does there have to be a load on it to show boost. let me know what to do thanks
Check the Procharger forum ?
Greets, Marco
'91 Chevy 496SS, Edelbrock Pro-flo 2 injection, alu. GMPP heads, blowercam, coolmist water injection, turbo in the works.
*VIDEO* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZOdXg0TOdw
You need a hand pressure pump and that way the car is off. You can then adjust it watching a fuel pressure gauge and make sure the unit is giving you 12lb of fuel for every 1lb of boost to start. So on a pressure gauge you should pump to 5psi and when your showing 90-100lb of fuel pressure your set till you drive and see if it is to rich at wot at full boost. You really need a Wide Band A/F gauge to always make the best adjustments. Like said above you can ask the Procharger guys but the way I described is going to be the best to verify the FMU settings.
well i got everyhting together and dont have a gauge so i could not get it but i tried it in and then out when i go downt he roac and once it hits boost even 1psi it dies right on its face like someone turned the fuel offf. plus the timming is still at 13 and stock plugs are in. i know u all told me things to do before but can u relist what i need to do from start to finsih as in gap plugs timming and fuel. do i need a pump? thanks
few more things i need answered, first i am blowing the PCV valve out of the intake ever time and oil gets all over, anyone have that problem and how do u fix that. next is i found the directions for this **** box and it says it is for a mass air car my car is a 88 notch no mass are..... can i work around that or is that my big problem and i need to convert? if i have to i will if i can get a cheap kit if not i will sell the sn92 complete set up with is mint , so help me out and if it does not work out make me an offer if anyone wants it it is rebuilt upgraded etc i have all the paper work on it, but thats if i cant fix this well i will check back later thanks
All you need it to work on a SD car is a one way check valve you can get from NAPA and put it in line on the BAP sensor vacuum line. This will keep the car from jerking and not running correctly. That was a major not mention having SD.
yea i totally forgot about that so if i get that then it willl just make boost and pull and i can just fix the timing and have fun? so where does it go? in the vacuum line of the MAP senser, just put it in? also my other big problem now is y is my pcv valve keep blowin out of the hole and oil is going everywhere? how do i keep that in do i have to run it somewheres else?. thanks for the help let me know
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks