So what's the best oil/fluid to use in a Paxton SN series blower?

[Duke]

I have some paxta trac blue and i have a bottle of the tan and im not real sure if im going to try it? I might just keep using the ford type f that i pick up at the local ford garage.

[Michael]

Regular or synthetic? What is recommended?

Read post #4 near the top of this discussion thread.

Speedytang is the expert on these Paxton ball-drive superchargers.

[JPJP]

Thank you Michael. Speedytang's comment. I had forgotten his comment (being an older thread and all) and should have reread the entire thread before posting.

Do NOT use synthetic!

[xounlistedxox]

Have any of you guys used type f then switched to trick shift or vice versa? If so was there any difference in boost, or wear?

[JPJP]

I have made the switch this past summer to B&M TRICK SHIFT. It really does hold up a lot better than Type F.

[winfred]

mine took less tension to stop slip on trick shift

[zray]

Have any of you guys used type f then switched to trick shift or vice versa? If so was there any difference in boost, or wear?

can't speak to the difference in wear as I have always used B&M Trick Shift. But I can say you can get phenomenal service out of a ball drive Paxton when using the B&M Trick Shift in conjunction with a fluid cooler. So far I've got about 40,000 miles on mine, with countless redline adventures, and it's still going strong.

Z.

[Michael]

Have any of you guys used type f then switched to trick shift or vice versa? If so was there any difference in boost, or wear?

I'm sure it's been mentioned before, but if you're going to use B&M Trick Shift, make sure you get the non-synthetic version. Synthetic fluid (of any type, whether Type F, Trick Shift, etc...) in these ball-drive blowers is actually TOO slick and will cause the internal ball drive to slip at high revs.

[Aggressor]

Upon Craig's recommendation, I stick with Type F. It has a friction modifier that is important in a Paxton. Also I change fluid at far less than 3000 miles. As Craig said the fresher the fluid the better. The Type F is inexpensive. It's cheap insurance and it's not a big deal to change it. I change fluid in a pair of SN60's every 2-3 months. It takes less than 15 minutes. When you change in short time frames you don't have to remove every drop. Just remove the bulk of the fluid. Measure what you remove and then just replace the same amount of fresh fluid.

-Aggressor

[zray]

Have any of you guys used type f then switched to trick shift or vice versa? If so was there any difference in boost, or wear?

Upon Craig's recommendation, I stick with Type F. It has a friction modifier that is important in a Paxton.............."

I think it needs to be pointed out again, that B&M Trick Shift is NOT an additive. It IS a high quality, if not the highest quality, type F fluid. It meets or exceeds EVERY qualification for type F fluid.

and, as pointed out above, the non-synthetic B&M Trick Shift has all the friction modifiers needed for ball drive Paxtons that see extreme duty. and when used in conjunction with a fluid cooler there is no reason not to expect thousands of miles of from your Paxton. Every summer I've run mine for hours at a time in 3 digit temperatures. No measurable wear, and no loss of boost over a nine year/40,000 mile period.

Z.