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So what's the best oil/fluid to use in a Paxton SN series blower?
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Thread: So what's the best oil/fluid to use in a Paxton SN series blower?

  1. #1
    SCH Owner Michael's Avatar
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    So what's the best oil/fluid to use in a Paxton SN series blower?

    Hi guys,

    OK, I've been going through the archives, just looking for any and all information I can find on these Paxton SN series chargers, and I am learning alot.

    Now, I know that the SN series chargers use Type 'F' Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for lubrication, which is obviously readily available in any autoparts store. But one thing I remember reading in one of the discussions was that not all ATFs are the same, and that some experimentation between the various products is required in order to find a "good" ATF to use.

    Has anyone figured out which fluid is "the best" to use for these blowers?

    Thanks very much in advance everyone.

  2. #2
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    I use Valvoline 'F'

  3. #3
    SCH Owner Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedytang
    I use Valvoline 'F'
    Awesome! Thanks speedytang.

    Anyone else use anything different, or is Valvoline the elixire of choice?

    BTW - Is this Valvoline ATF synthetic? How long between fluid change intervals?

    Thanks again.

  4. #4
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    Do NOT use Synthetic. 3000 miles

  5. #5
    SCH Owner Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedytang
    Do NOT use Synthetic.
    No problem, I won't. Any particular reason why though?

    Quote Originally Posted by speedytang
    3,000 miles
    THAT'S IT?!? :shocked: For EVERY fluid change?!? GAK!!!

    I thought I read somewhere that the fluid should be changed at 3,000miles the first time, but then every like 10,000 or 15,000 after that.

    Whoa! 3,000 miles - that kinda blows (no pun intended). Is the change interval the same if I were to run an oil cooler system?

    And how do you drain/flush the system? There's no drain hole on the bottom of the fluid chamber (at least, not one I saw). PLEASE don't tell me that the charger has to be removed from the engine in order to drain the system...

  6. #6
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    I took a gatorade bottle and drilled two holes in the top. Run two lengths of tubing aquarium pump tubing, one to go into the blower and one into your mouth. RTV them to the top.

    I then put one tube down the dipstick hole to the bottom, and the other in my mouth. Create a vacuum in the gatorade bottle which in turn pulls the fluid out of the blower.

  7. #7
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    The Blower uses friction to operate so you don't want something slick. Just change the fluid when you change your car oil. 3000 miles is really good considering your not using a remote unit to cool the fluid or a filter. With the remote cooler I still change my fluid every 3000 miles what is a $1.75 every 3000 miles. When racing the unit I change it after racing. The original way to change the fluid was a turkey baster with a needle on the end.

  8. #8
    SCH Owner Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedytang
    The Blower uses friction to operate so you don't want something slick. Just change the fluid when you change your car oil. 3000 miles is really good considering your not using a remote unit to cool the fluid or a filter. With the remote cooler I still change my fluid every 3000 miles what is a $1.75 every 3000 miles. When racing the unit I change it after racing. The original way to change the fluid was a turkey baster with a needle on the end.
    I guess you're right - 3,000 miles isn't that bad. And using my oil changes as an indicator of when to change the charger's fluid is a good way of remembering to do it (I don't race the car, so I won't have to worry about changing the fluid after every racing event).

    With respect to the remote cooler, is it worthwhile to use a remote filter as well? I've also seen some inline filters too - any advantage to those?

    BTW - what oil cooling system to you use? Is it the same one that Paradise Wheels sells, or someone elses?

  9. #9
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    The original Paxton kit which is what Paradise sells just with a bigger cooler.

  10. #10
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    i used a mix of 70% Type F / 30% Lucas in my VR4. Also used the same oil cooler that originally came with the VR4 upgrade kits.
    94GT...Stock Block 306, Performer heads, RPM intake, F cam,
    V1 S-trim, AFM Powerpipe, 2.75" pulley, A9L, Interceptor 2, etc. :freaks:

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    F1-R, F.A.S.T, 160lb'ers, Glide, Reichard Intercooler, 25.5, etc. :evil:

  11. #11
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    This is what I read in the sn2000 installation guide;

    The standard oil is Ford type F or type FA transmission fluid. PAXTA TRAC synthetic traction fluid may be used to increase boost pressure. We do not recommend the use of any other oils including AMSOIL or MOBIL 1.

    Anyone used the PAXTA TRAC oil? I looked in old Blower Works catalog, $224 per gallon and it will increase boost about 1 psi.

  12. #12
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    Paxta Trac racing was Blue and for the VR4 and the increase was 3psi if your belt did not slip but it would put some wear on the balls so they needed replaced every season.

  13. #13
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    It sounds like it is best to stick to type F oil then :)

  14. #14
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    Yes, Type 'F' is best.

  15. #15
    Senior SCH Member pavement pounde's Avatar
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    I also use a clear in line filter with the oilcooler kit.
    That way I can check while engine idling if the pump is actualy pumping and check for debris.
    Greets, Marco
    '91 Chevy 496SS, Edelbrock Pro-flo 2 injection, alu. GMPP heads, blowercam, coolmist water injection, turbo in the works.
    *VIDEO* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZOdXg0TOdw

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