Novi 1000 Install from Hell!!!! HELP ME!

[criticman]

So...two MAJOR issues:

-Blower will not allow the hood to close - it is mounted properly (i.e., the proper bolts in the proper holes). It was also annoying because I had to remove the strut tower brace as I saw the blower discharge tube would not fit with it there. SO, HOW THE HELL DOES IT FIT?!?!?! Was the blower "clocked" improperly for my setup before it shipped to me from Paxton?
EDIT: Found the thread where it talks about the need to clock it for most people - yeah, stupid Paxton needs to include this in their instructions...or maybe clock it properly before shipping it off to us. I will clock it in the morning and see if that works. As for the strut brace...anyone able to run this blower and maintain the use of a strut tower brace?

-Oil pressure sending unit...all photos show it being on some sort of extension...well, mine is tight on the block. There is pretty much NO WAY to remove it because the "bolt/nut" part that I would turn with a wrench is too tight to the block and tons of things are in the way. That and the sender has broken off of the part that is threaded on. So, I guess I need a new sender...but how the hell do I get the old one off? And where would I find this "extension" I see the pressure sending unit on in both the Paxton installation manual and in an installation pic in a book for a oil pressure gauge?

Other than that, it has gone "well." The tap for the oil panwas a pain - drilled the pilot hole, tried the punch, it wouldn't go in because there was no room to get a good swing...even undid fuel lines and wires. Finally went to Wal-Mart (24 hrs) to get a 1/2" bit, drilled that and then used the punch to get it the rest of the way to get the NPT tap in. I flushed the system with crappy Wal-Mart oil to get any additional shavings out that the bigger bit probably caused.

[Chuck]

I had the same problem with the extension for the oil sender. My car is a 93 also I think thats when they started doing that. Luckily I had an 88 too at the time so i took it from there.

Go to a hardware store and look in the plumbing section and they sell 3 and 4 inch length's of rigid pipe. I believe the thread is 1/4" npt. The kit should have included the Y fitting right?


Your only other option is to run to the local scrap yard and find an older 302 still in a car and steal the oil extension fitting and the sending unit cause it looks like youll need a new one of those too.

[criticman]

Thanks. I love it when Ford makes changes and installation instructions for things don't make mention of it.

Yeah, it came with the Y fitting, so I can take that assembly with me to Lowe's to find an extension to fit.

What do I need to do to get the old unit off of the car? Someone mentioned a 27mm deep socket, but they didn't seem too confident in the size.

[criticman]

Alright...so I used brass plumbing fittings from Lowe's and made an extension. After some adjustments in terms of tightening and sealant, no oil leaks there.

So, everything went fairly well. I had to take the Dremel to 1.25" of the steel discharge tube as it would not fit between the TB and blower.

The hood didn't close properly. It is clocked as far as I could get it rotated with the 6 bolts loose to allow rotation. I used some dielectric grease since it is white to see where on the hood it was hitting. I cut a square out of the hood insulation. The hood closes for the most part...but it is hitting on the blower just south of where the discharge tube connects. Anyone have an idea for fixing this or am I just going to have to live with it? My hood was already hard to shut tightly before...so any advice?

I went for a drive, keeping it below 3000 rpm to make sure things were alright. Once I was certain they were, I got on it. At about 4k, the entire car started shaking, felt through the wheel and tranny. I immediately let off the throttle and it stopped. I cruised at the low rpm's for about a mile and then gave it one more whirl to try and nail down what had happened. This time the vibrations started again but then the car just cut out (all cylinders stopped and the car dove forward) at around 5000 rpm. So, why is it doing this?

Since my new MAF is not in, the 42# injectors and 255lph pump are not in - I am using the standard FMU. The plugs are one heat range colder, gapped down from the stock gap of 0.054 to around 0.040-0.042.

Please give me an idea of what is going on and let me know what I need to check! So far, all of this work has not been worth it - help me get it running so I can change my mind and enjoy the car as I should :teeth:

[Chuck]

Re-gap the plugs to about .032. It will feel as if the engine is hitting a rev limiter when the spark is being blown out.

And just so I understand you are using the stock 19# injectors with the FMU supplied in the kit right?

[criticman]

Yeah, I figured it may be the plugs. And stupid FedEx...my Jeg's order should've been here Monday. It arrived yesterday with a sticker on it showing that it had been lost but they found it sitting on a loading dock. In any event, when it arrived the Crane Hi-6 had been used before, packaging all torn up, casing beaten to hell. So I have to send it back (well, don't have to but I am not going to trust something in that condition). With it, the plug gap should've been fine. Without it...obviously not.

And yes, stock 19#'s with the kit's FMU.

[criticman]

Oh yeah, any ideas on the hood fitment?