What do you guys think of the water/meth injection kit from snow performance.
What do you guys think of the water/meth injection kit from snow performance.
One of my friends has it on his car and likes it alot. He has the stage 2. I have also talked to guys at the track that like the Mr. Freeze alot.
1993 Mustang LX
Reef Blue, 5spd, too much to list!
1993 Mustang GT SOLD :(
Powerdyne BD-11A w/9lb pulley,AOD->T-5 swap, MAC 1 5/8 shorties, MAC ProChamber, MAC catback,Pro 5.0 shifter, stock 3.27's, SPEC Stage II,and all else stock!
12.774@111.147 with a 1.90 60ft on Nittos and 3000 rpm launch :)
Snow you can setup and use at 5psi the Anderson unit is really for 8psi+.
A lot cheaper and more effective than a intercooler. You really need a tuning device.
I am curious about this topic as well but more about Methanol versus denatured alcohol, from what I have been reading Methanol is extremely corrosive and is not really recommended for use around metals like aluminum cause apparently it can eat threw aluminum fittings.
I plan on running water injection but with denatured alcohol water 50/50 mix. I realize how much cheaper methanol is though maybe a Little harder to locate but its not a problem in my area to find. The denatured is like 3 + times the cost here so if my readings are incorrect on this I would like to know.
Especially considering my intake and heads are made of aluminum.
So, which of the literally hundreds of recipes for denatured alcohol do you plan to use? You realise, denatured alcohol contain methanol nearly all the time, don't you? And that "denaturing" just means rendering it poisonous to drink (meaning: adding meth)?
Pure Meth will harm the finish on aluminum parts but, eating through them is a much longer process. This may help with lifespans: A car converted from gas to alcohol typically finds carb parts lasting about 1/2 as long but, no other ill effects occur. It will certainly do absolutely nothing to your heads because their only exposed to it under combustion. It likewise won't hurt your manifold, since it's a transitory exposure. The weak links are fittings and lines for the meth system itself, which you can deal with by going with steel lines and fittings.
Meth is frequently added, straight up, to fuel systems in machinery to combat deposits and line freezing in low temperatures. Sounds pretty safe if they'll leave it in a generator or large construction implement parked outside for months.
F=MA
I did my own water injection. You can go to ALKY control .com...something like that and have A DIY water injection. My paxton came with a water injection setup. I replaced the tiny windshild washer pump with a sureflow pump, then, hooked my system up to an adjustible hobbs so the water injection comes on when I hit 4.5psi boost. Works great! Go to northern tool for the surflow pump, cost about $50
I do know it contains Methanol but not pure methanol and it is not suppose to be as corrosive at methanol in any of the acceptable mixtures found on shelfs in locations like Home Depot or Lowes. I have just been reading some negative comments on the use of it over denatured alcohol, like corrosion around throttle bodys and interior manifold fittings.Originally Posted by F=MA
From some reading I have found that denatured alcohol was the safer choice here but like I said I want to know if I am wrong but I really don't want to chance it,. I would actually prefer to run methanol water 50/50 mix as it is alot cheaper and not hard to come by here in Jersey but also don't want a possibly danger sum corrosive vapor making its way threw the interior of my engine either.
Thanks for your input.
I could never notice any differences in my ET's on the drag strip, or by the seat of my pants when I used water only, or a 50/50 mix of water/methanol. I just used water after I saw no differnece at the track. Water has one of the highest specific gravities therefore, it absorbs heat better than anything out there. Less heat, more timming = more potential power;)
Yep, the only reason to add ADI is so you can raise the boost level and timing curves to make more power. If you just stick it on a running setup it won't do anything and might even slow it up.
The ease of water only is it's not a fuel so you don't have to account for it in your fueling calculations. 50/50 water/meth or water/other alcohol is a good compromise as it needs only minor fueling adaptation.
On my present car, I use nitrous as my chemical intercooler but, that's just because it was on the car already as a power adder preiously.
F=MA
As I stated before the process of adding any kind of injection is a waste of time without a TUNING device and some kind of Safety devices also.
Yeah, trial and error is fine if you don't mind replacing head gaskets after every "error"...:weird:
F=MA
EXACTLY. My friend put the Snow kit on his 89 GT which was a perfectly strong running car to begein with. I did all the work on it when my cousin owned it previously. Stock 160,000 mile motor with a NOVI 1000 and Powerpipe (5lbs before, 7lbs with PP), and then he added a smaller pulley to see about 9lbs but was getting belt slip. He added the Snow kit and with some timing advance it was definitely pulling hard. A total of 17 degrees initial
but he got carried away the 1st day he had it on and got serious spark knock then backed it off. WELL, it started to spit coolant out a little at a time and progressively got worse until they went completely.
Get a W/A kit, go to a dyno with a wideband and then tune the car either with FP and timing or custom chip if you can. Timing and fuel pressure will work but you can't get it perfect obviously....
Just don't stick it on and crank the timing....asking for trouble.
1993 Mustang LX
Reef Blue, 5spd, too much to list!
1993 Mustang GT SOLD :(
Powerdyne BD-11A w/9lb pulley,AOD->T-5 swap, MAC 1 5/8 shorties, MAC ProChamber, MAC catback,Pro 5.0 shifter, stock 3.27's, SPEC Stage II,and all else stock!
12.774@111.147 with a 1.90 60ft on Nittos and 3000 rpm launch :)
That just goes to show how important it is to make small adjustments in your timming when you are testing your equipment on your machines! Little changes at a time and having the proper tools to watch what is going on. Never just throw on a water injection unit, N20, or forced induction and then start making big changes, that's a recipie for disaster. A wide band is nice, but you can see detonation by using some of the diagnostic software for you cars on the PC while it's running. I currently am looking at purchasing the craig moates ostrich so I can tune in real time.
The quest for more power should be done with changes and then the proper tune
i use heet in yellow bottle only, i do not mix works great. novi 88
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