Now I'm get'n somewhere: more tuning advise please

[88t.birdsc]

Ok, I start from scratch.
sn2000 6" crank 4.5 charger, factory inlets
88 t bird 90k s.o. converted to h.o., cam retarted 4 degrees
speed density, bleed one way check valve to map
factory exhaust manifolds, fake dual turbo mufflers, gutted cats'
air silencer removed
fmu (factory disc 12:1?)
stock aod tranny and converter
3:73 auburn posi
255lph fuel pump bbk adj. reg.
base timing 10 degrees
93 octane w/2 cans of nos racing octane boost
160 degree thermostat

parts not installed:
iroc 3 groove sn93
cog belt 57 crank 32 charger
125 non adj. nitrous works throttle body plate system
inline bosch fuel pump
e303 camshaft
gt 40 y heads
93 mustang stock short block(hyper. pistons)
a9l processor and harness
85mm pro m mass air flow (cal. for powerpipe and 30# inj.)

future:
tweecer rt tuner
24 or 30 lb injectors
crane or msd rev limiter and/or boost retarder
3000 stall stallion pi converter
shift kit
throttle body
vr4


What should my fuel pressure be at idle and wot?
Can the bleed valve to the map cause idle surge?
How soon in rpm could I ramp up the charger with the cogs and a rev limiter?
How much timing advance can be used?
Do I need a cooler?
Is the $250.00 powerpipe worth it? Could one be fabricated from pvc?
How should I set my idle rpm?














How quick could I ramp up the boost with cogs and rev limiter?

[F=MA]

1. 30-ish at idle, looks like about 70 WOT on that FMU, assuming the pump can handle the volume. That's about right for what you'll need for a stock-pulleyed SN on 19s.

2. Yes, but more typically, it'll cause racing idle on SD. You have to fiddle the size of the hole to get it just right. I am using a 42 dry nitrous jet on my SD setup. It's good. Retarding your cam timing may be a contributor to problems with idling.

3. Not quite sure what you mean by this.

4. As much as she'll take without blowing the heads off. Start at 8* base and work up.

5. Cooler is only needed if you want to add more airflow and timing advance. The stock SN won't be particularly helped by it, unless you live in Death Valley.

6. You could fabricate one but, I'd make it out of metal, as the cross sectioal area of PVC and ABS isn't its measured size since pipe schedules work inwards the thicker they get.

7. You can't set idle rpm on the EEC setup. It's factory preset at 650 rpm. You can diddle around with the air throttle bypass and TPS a bit to help with idling problems. Suffice to say, if the min air screw hasn't been touched, the TPS voltage is .7 to 1.1 volts closed, the air throttle bypass valve is clean and functioning, there isn't an issue usually. Do a search on someplace like the Corral as don't want to type all that well-known info again.

F=MA

[DSBLK93GT]

I'm not sure if it will work..but UPR sells a pipe for $99 that is not bad at all..plastic. I have installed the AFM Powerpipe and it is a nice piece but alot of $$. You could have one made for less or if you can weld and fabricate make your own...

[88t.birdsc]

Thank you all for the tips.

I'm at 10 degrees base timing. I ran it a couple of time at 14 degrees and it seemed ok, but my hearing is shot. Paranoid I dropped it back down to 10.
Hopefully, I can adjust the tables when I get the tweecer

My fuel pressure is about right then. Aprox. 40psi at idle and 65 at wot.

I would like to install a power pipe but I can't weld and the price seems too high for now. Probabley anderson ford or homemade if a not too difficult fab.

I will check and adjust idle soon. Dvom crapped out.

Looks like I'm stuck at #19 inj. till I get the tweecer. The a9l may also be a possiblity. I would like to try to get the best tune I can with this stuff; however, right now it seems as though I'm limited to what I can power tune.

The cogs and oil cooler I'll start another thread

Again thanks,
Mike