SN89 HELP

**895.0sc** · 11-05-2008, 05:39 PM

HELLO,

I HAVE OIL GOING IN TO MY INTAKE. I'VE HEARD IT COULD BE THE RETURN LINE ON MY OIL COOLER OR THE SEAL IS BLOWN IN THE SUPERCHARGER. COULD IT ALSO BE IT'S OVERFILLED? WHERE SHOULD THE LEVEL BE ON THE DIPSTICK? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.

THANKS,

JASON

**F=MA** · 11-05-2008, 07:44 PM

Money on the blown rear seal. They are expensive but, easy to replace, even though you have to strip down the entire blower to do it.

Ovrefilling isn't really an issue, nless it's so massively overfilled that it's overflowing, or your pump is too aggressive on your coolant system and is pressurising the case.

F=MA

***speedytang*** · 11-05-2008, 11:33 PM

Are we talking OIL or TRANSMISSION FLUID from the Supercharger?

**895.0sc** · 11-06-2008, 08:22 AM

HELLO,

JUST HOW EASY IS IT? I'M NOT VERY MECHANICAL. IS THERE A MANUAL SOMEWHWERE THAT I COULD USE OR SHOULD I TAKE IT TO A PRO?

THANKS,

JASON

**895.0sc** · 11-06-2008, 08:31 AM

SPEEDYTANG,

IT IS TRANSMISSION FLUID FROM THE SUPERCHARGER.

JASON

**F=MA** · 11-08-2008, 02:24 PM

It's so dead easy a cross-eyed monkey could do it. I rebuilt mine w/o a manual by just carefully noting and documenting where everything was. I put everything back just as it was after fixing the damaged parts and voila, good to go. The only absolute # you can't replace with plain old common sense is the rotational torque value of the unit when assembled. Check this with an inch-pound torque wrench and ensure it's 35-40 inch pounds wet to turn the blower over, assuming this is stock pulleyed SN89. Don't put more pressure on it than that, even with a cooler, there's no need at 5 lbs boost. Case bolts should be no more than 160 inch-lbs but, like I said, that's obvious given the size of the bolt and the material it's screwing into.

F=MA

**895.0sc** · 11-11-2008, 09:37 AM

HELLO,

THANKS FOR THE INFO. I'LL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT TURN OUT.

JASON

**F=MA** · 11-11-2008, 06:29 PM

Any Qs don't hesitate to ask, too. I check this board pretty often even even though business is slow. Better to ask a question than make a dumb mistake.

F=MA

***speedytang*** · 11-12-2008, 12:18 AM

When you take it apart I would go ahead and check the Balls and Impeller shaft for any damage. You have it apart so why not check things out.

**895.0sc** · 11-12-2008, 09:22 AM

THANKS FELLAS. I WILL.

**895.0sc** · 11-19-2008, 10:17 PM

OKAY. I'VE GOT THE SUPERCHARGER OUT AND SEPARATED INTO TWO HALVES. HOW DO I GO ABOUT GETTING TO THE SEALS. I TRIED TO REMOVE THE TOURQXS BITS FROM THE BACK WITH NO SUCCESS. I WAS USING A CORDLESS DRILL. SHOULD I DO IT MANUALY? I DON'T HAVE THE PROPER TOOL IF SO. HOW DO I REMOVE THE CAP ON THE FRONT OF THE PULLEY? I TRIED TO GENTLY PRY IT OFF WITH NO LUCK. NOT SURE IF IT WAS THE RIGHT WAY SO I THOUGHT I'D ASK. ANYBODY GOT A CROSS EYED MONKEY LAYING AROUND?
THANKS.

***speedytang*** · 11-19-2008, 11:27 PM

The back plate torx bolts allow you access to the impeller. You need to take the front torx bolts out to seperate the case. You really have no reason to remove the front pulley unless that seal is leaking and that is a different job that takes some skill to press out the front shaft. The case is tight and will take a little force to seperate the case and take care because a huge O-Ring seals the two pieces to keep the fluid in the unit.

**895.0sc** · 11-20-2008, 09:57 AM

I GOT TO THE IMPELLER AND I'M NOT SURE HOW TO REMOVE IT. I DON'T WANT TO STRIP THE THE BOLT. I HAVE A SOCKET THAT FITS OVER IT BUT I DON'T WANT TO FORCE IT. IS IT STILL LEFTY LOOSEY OR IS IT REVERSED? IS THERE A BETTER WAY TO KEEP THE IMPELLER FROM MOVING BESIDES TRYING TO HOLD IT BY HAND? SOMEONE TOLD ME I SHOULD JUST SEND IT TO SOMEBODY BECAUSE OF A BALANCING ISSUE WITH THE IMPELLER. ANY THOUGHTS? THANKS.

**F=MA** · 11-20-2008, 08:05 PM

It's a standard thread. Grab a cloth and hold the impeller with your hand. TIGHTEN it a touch first to break the thread lock and then loosen, it'll wind right off. "Somebody" is full of ****, BTW.

F=MA