Warning: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in ..../includes/class_bbcode.php on line 2958 Had to change head gaskets.
I was getting bubbles in over flow and pressure was pussing coolent out.I had noticed coolent seaping out of the Cometic gaskets so i decided to pull it apart and change out to some felpro's.When i disassembled motor to inspect I did notice gasket looked to have a breach on water passage.:(
I also noticed the exaust ports on heads have some white spts on top of the black carbon build up? I will post some pics later.I also heard a psst noise when I loosened head bolts on # 5 piston.I did have plugs out prior to doing this also?wierd?
Last edited by slownlow; 06-07-2010 at 09:00 PM.
Reason: pictures
Nothing to obvious from the pictures. Just have the heads milled to be a new surface for the gaskets. I never had luck with Cometic gaskets. I run over 18psi on stock silicon $20 pair gaskets I purchased from Kar Kraft at a swap meet 8 years ago. Using stock head bolts also. Just be careful and do not get the intake bolts to tight or you can lift the heads but your using head studs so your in good shape.
do I really need to have heads milled? motor only has a few thousand miles on it. I am just going with the felpro gaskets FPP-1011-2 .Also ordered these FMS-M-6051-A302 probably same gasket but I wanted to see diffrence.
1 more question on my Pedastal mount crane rockers. I am way out of date on adjusting valves any tips? I was told you just bolt them down to 20 ft pounds? Seems to me like I would have to rotate the motor in some sort of order before cranking down?
I also want to thank you for all your advice its been spot on thus far.
I had problems with my cometic gaskets also, there is a stronger gasket then the 1011-2 gasket. Use the felpro 9333 gasket. I just had to deal with this same problem, speedy has a good tip on the intake, the research i did came up with a 15-18 ft lb on the upper intake bolts. My cometic gaskets were leaking combustion between the layers.
I talked to a very known engine builder about the cometic gaskets, He said the stock block does not have a very strong deck and that it is hard to get them to seal up good even with the ra50 finish on the deck and head. Also said he does not dry deck them he uses a spray sealer on them.He also added that he has never had a problem with them on a dart block (thicker deck).
It is always in the prep and correct torque on a Ford 5.0 because not enough head bolts and the the block shifts so much. A upper girdle that goes under the intake will stop the shifting or shaking of the block and the bolt torque will be more accurate. I run my engines that I build with 600 whp with stock type gaskets and even head bolts. MLS head gaskets are not just a install and go. You need to prep the head and block to make sure they are 100% flat so the head crushes the gasket perfect so you do not get leaks between layers. I build 4g63 engines now also and the same problem with MLS gaskets and it is even harder with aluminum heads like your using and production castings because I have not found but a few that are perfect without a head decking after they have been in a couple of heat cycles.
I also found this info.Seems quicker? hows it sound to you.
1) Install all 16, and snug down the nuts by hand.
2) Rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke.
3) Check the rotor in the distributor, and verify that it is pointing at the #1 wire on the cap. If it's not, rotate the engine 360 degrees.
4) To find the point of zero lash, spin the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger while slowly tightening the nut with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Tighten the following rockers until you feel the first bit of drag on the spinning pushrod:
6) Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so the balancer reads TDC again.
7) With a 1/4" ratchet, tighten these rockers (again, to zero lash): Cylinder #3 intake, Cylinder #2 exhaust, Cylinder #7 intake, Cylinder #6 exhaust.
8) slowly torque to 20 pounds
9) Rotate the engine 90 degrees, and with the ratchet, tighten to zero lash on these rockers: Cylinder #2 intake Cylinder #4 exhaust Cylinder #5 intake and exhaust Cylinder #6 intake Cylinder #8 exhaust
10) slowly torque to 20 pounds
Now for My questions?
How do I know I am on compression stroke for sure?
Will the Cam have any affect on procedure?
should I torque the heads to 75 bottom 85 top ?
Also if this is a prior running motor and nothing has changed cant I just torque to 20lbs and call it done while spinning the crank at appropriate times of course?
This is the way i do it, Turn the engine in the direction of rotation. As the exhaust valve just begins to open adjust the intake valve. keep turning, as the intake valve starts to close adjust the exhaust. This method works on any 4 stroke engine and it is the way most engine builders do it. Next time you go to a nhra event watch the pro stock boy's adjust there valves this is the way they do it. Once you get good at it you can run the valves on a v-8 in a couple minutes.
this didnt have any shims when I tore it down.nothing took more than 1/2 turn to torque.
I appreciate ll you comments.It makes me crazy sifting through all the BS on various forums. It seems like for every 5 posts that have correct info there are 12 with wrong info..
Thanks again you guys have been a valuable source of info. Speedy wish I lived closer You would be tuning this on your dyno for me.
well I got it back togeather.I just ended up basically putting each cylinder at the top of compression stroke and adjusted valves for each rocker to 20 ftlbs in the order they fire.
Need tochange oil and put rad support back on then fill fluids and hope for the best.
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