Rebuild Time

[JPJP]

Well my SN is making that unmistaken "rebuild me" sound. The unit is extremely notchy when I turn it over by hand (feels like detents).

My dad told me my grandpa used to rebuild the old McCulloch superchargers(predecessors of Paxton SN's) they used to put on Kaisers. I am told he would wear cotton gloves to prevent contaminating the new balls.

I bought my unit used and heard the previous owner used it for racing. He too had it on a Mustang. It lasted me 5000 miles with frequent oil changes on it.

I have not done this before but have compiled a lot of info including exploded views from links from this website. Anything special I should watch for?

[speedytang]

You will need a impeller shaft and balls for sure and just check the rear impeller distance of the housing so it does not dig into it.

[JPJP]

Thanks for the good info!

[speedytang]

The closer you get the impeller to the rear housing the more power it will produce at a lower rpm.

[JPJP]

Well I began to take it apart and noticed the ball carrier has dimples in it about .160" in Diameter where the drive dogs push the balls. There are smaller dimples (about .080" Dia.) on the side where the drive dogs follow the balls.

I am thinking this is acceptable and does not require replacing but want an opinion from someone who knows these units.

I took a picture but haven't been able to upload it.

[JPJP]

[JPJP]

OK trying to upload the pic again.

[speedytang]

That is fine and will not cause a problem

[JPJP]

OK I finally finished taking it apart. These things are simpler inside than I had thought at first.

Looks like I only require balls and an impeller shaft just like speedystang said would probably be the case. I plan to get a high performance impeller for an upgrade.

When taking it apart the outer bearing race on the impeller side fell out. I noticed the exploded view (drawing) of the supercharger has a hand written note stating to use Loctite on the races. Will the "race lock pin" be adequate or should I go ahead and seal it in with Loctite? If Loctite is to be used should I use a 600 series (bearing retaining grade)? Also when the races do happen to fail how do I remove the one that has Loctite already holding it in place? Do I use heat?

Please advise.

[pavement pounde]

Better use locktide, it is not a must but better safe then sorry.
note that when you get a new impellershaft that you might need more/less shims behind the big washer behind the race.

[JPJP]

I will using the bearing retaining compound for your reasons mentioned. I recommend:

LOCTITE® 603

http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93772_603EN.pdf

[JPJP]

Well in the rush to use Loctite I went ahead and set them in not realizing I have to put shims and the Belleville washer in first. Needless to say I had to use a torch to heat up the Loctite and get the race back out. Now I have to get a rear seal (shucks).

Upon thinking about the function of the Belleville washer I also recommend NOT using Loctite on this particular race. Using Loctite will prevent the Belleville washer and shims from doing their job of putting pressure on the back of the race against the balls. Also future shimming or changing of the race will result in having to use high heat to overcome the bond and the rear seal will be toasted.

[pavement pounde]

Good point, bad luck on the rear seal

[nnford]

Hey JPJP where did you get the exploded views at?? I am looking to put a HO impeller in my SN93 and am looking for some info to do that, torque settings, sequence, and perhaps what all I would need to purchase to do this. Any help would be much appriciated!! Thx

[JPJP]

I got the exploded view from photobucket which you now have to be a member to view. I think it was pavement pounder (above) who posted it.

Contact Craig at Paradise wheels for info as I still haven't gotten far enough to install the impeller yet. I had a mishap and forced some things and broke the main casting (scroll).