SN 2000 Disassembely and inspection, help/info needed...

[pavement pounde]

Yes, but not very tight.

[444]

So what's the best way of getting the races out without damaging anything? Because if once I torq it all back together and if I need to shim it to get the correct tension the way I understand it is the races come out and the shims go underneath the lower race. I read someone suggesting freezing the races helps to shrink them enough to get them back in easy. But didn't see any suggestions about getting them out...?

Also, as far as the ball drive tension goes, after searching a bit, I've read suggestions all over the map. From the 25 that paradise told me to someone saying cundn suggests 45 to other people yet suggesting near 50. I will be modding for an external oil cooler so I'd just like to set this thing up correctly now, rather than having to tweak it as soon as I bolt it on.

[pavement pounde]

You'll be ok with 25-35 .
You can either heat up the aluminum or tap it on the rearside with a rubber hammer, its either lockked with a pin or a rollpin.

[JPJP]

The races are NOT press fit. A very close clearance fit. Thus the reason for a pin to keep them from rotating. I suppose since they are different materials it is a press fit at lower temperatures towards freezing.

I found a way to get them out easily when I decided to clean up the assembly in the laundry tub with hot water. The race just fell right out due to the aluminum expanding more than the steel.

Also the high output impeller is $150 from Paradise wheels with no trade in. I just bought mine this fall (2009).

[ajhale]

444 Awesome pics of your breakdown. These are the best I've seen.

Did you happen to copy down the part numbers of the bearings and/or seals that came with your rebuild kit so that someone could pick them up locally if needed?

[444]

444 Awesome pics of your breakdown. These are the best I've seen.

Did you happen to copy down the part numbers of the bearings and/or seals that came with your rebuild kit so that someone could pick them up locally if needed?

No I did not but I still have all the parts and could post the #'s on the boxes.

[pavement pounde]

Some years ago I wrote it all down on my first rebuild.
There are some numbers to, I found out that these # numbers belong to Paxton at the the time and the companys did not want to sell them to others.
The front oilseal dough is a reguarly one and can found at any oilseal shop.

http://www.454ss.com/Articles/include2.asp?id=62

[444]

The guy who did the refresh kit on it kept the old parts. I have one box and the guy put both used oil seals in it. The box is marked Timken 1.250x1.752x0.250 National Seal 471413 SEAL701762, however since both oil seals are not the same, I can't help you much with the second one. The boxes are marked Koyo 6206C3 and the other one is Koyo 6205C3 JTEKT CORPORATION. The larger bearing says Koto 6206 with a C3 on the other side. The smaller bearing (the used one that came out of the unit) says Nachi 6205 on it. Both made in Japan. Hopefully that's of some use to someone who reads this. May be able to take the oil seals and/or bearings into a farm/trailer parts supplier and match up the #'s or sizes to cross-reference them to something comparable if you don't want to buy the prepackaged refresh kits.

[JPJP]

Motion Industries is a good distributor of bearings, seals, and related. They are located in a lot of different areas.

http://www.motionindustries.com/moti...mii/index.html

https://www.motionindustries.com/mot...jsp?LANGUAGE=0

[Joo]

The guy who did the refresh kit on it kept the old parts. I have one box and the guy put both used oil seals in it. The box is marked Timken 1.250x1.752x0.250 National Seal 471413 SEAL701762, however since both oil seals are not the same, I can't help you much with the second one. The boxes are marked Koyo 6206C3 and the other one is Koyo 6205C3 JTEKT CORPORATION. The larger bearing says Koto 6206 with a C3 on the other side. The smaller bearing (the used one that came out of the unit) says Nachi 6205 on it. Both made in Japan. Hopefully that's of some use to someone who reads this. May be able to take the oil seals and/or bearings into a farm/trailer parts supplier and match up the #'s or sizes to cross-reference them to something comparable if you don't want to buy the prepackaged refresh kits.

6203 is 17 x 40 x 12 mm (inside diameter x outside x width)
6205 is 25 x 52 x 15 mm
6206 is 30 x 62 x 16 mm
Standard metric ball bearings.
The C3 means slightly more clearance radial and axial.

[Gilbert Hernandez]

hey how are you out there. name is Gil new to sch and i need to make sure i`m putting all back in right for paxton sn 93 and i can see you know what you are taking about so if you can help me in anyway with photos or printouts that can help me with the rebuild would be very grateful , thanks for your time and consideration pavement pounde