What MAF is everyone running? I have a blow through setup with a 73mm C&L and 30# injectors. I am purchasing 42#ers, and getting a dyno tune/chip burn. Can i still use the C&L, or maybe a Pro M 75. I really don't want to have to go purchase a univer meter. Is it totally necessary with a chip?
I feel for you because that UNIVER is like $400.00. You might be able to use a 90MM Lightning MAF, it is calibrated for 42Klbs. I seen people selling this maf on ebay.
Not sure what type of car you got, but for example, I have seen Mustang GTs with prochargers running this MAF. But I think many cobra owners got for the UNIVER because the 90MM max's out.
Again, not sure your car so this might not work for you.
Im running a pro-m75 bullet and made 464rwhp and 431ft/lbs on 9-10psi. I am now putting 13-14psi and probably quite a bit more power to the tires, with no issues or tuning problems w/ the pro-m75 bullet.
I installed a procharger on a friend of mines 98Gt with the univer, so far it seemed to work well. although it ran like crap before it was tuned. Mine ran very well w/ a blow through/supercharged calibration before and after tuning.
Dan
1995 Rio Red Cobra #2021
Dart 331,AFR185,D1SC,RPMII upper/lower
OLD
GT40X, E303, D1SC 13psi, 3 core intercooler, Magnaflow Catback, Hooker equal lengths, Mac Prochamber, 3.73, Auburn, Moser 31 splines, Pro-m75, MSD 6AL, TKO, Spec Stage III, Larocca Tuned
10psi 11:1 a/f= 464rwhp 431ft/lbs
11.9@123mph @13psi 1.9 60'
hp? tq?
Moderator of General Tech
a 3.5" Univer made all the difference in the world on my car.. the Univers are IMO the best blow through meter out there.. I personally was given a tour of Pro M by the owner and was shown the differance between the univer and other meters on the bench.. the electronic noise was much better on the univer. So after seeing the in's and out's i was sold on it. I have heard houston performance is selling them for $340 or somthing.. I paid 400 for mine. Worth every penny...
95 GT MOVIE HERE
__________________________________________________
92 GT, BBK CAI, Mac Headers, Off road H pipe, 2 Chamber Flows, Underdrive pulleys,
High Performance AOD, Edge Converter,tubing, etc, etc
I have to agree with ponyboy19... the Univer is the best on the market. My buddies 96' 2V P1SC couldn't be tuned without it... we went through 2 different meter setups before the Univer and none of them would work right. The Univer made the difference. It is worth every dollar spent over other meters.
3.5 INCH UNIVER saved my rear too. I tried both Lightning MAFs (80mm and 90mm) max them both.
Ecactly what happens too. The meters get maxed out and you just pray at that point that the computer picks a safe default fuel map. The Univers have a hard time sampling at idle and the car runs a little rough... especially when cold, but with a tune, that is easily taken care of.
Sometimes you hope there is a cheaper way to do things. Sometimes there are, but not in this case. Chep here = lean conditions at high rpms. I can name two people now who tried 2 different MAFs before settling for the univer. Although a good tuner can compensate for the pegging of the MAF, it is by far not the safest way to do things. Just trying to save ya the extra expense in the long run. Look around on ebay and other sites for the univer. I found the best price at www.jdsperformance.com
My major concern is getting it to the dyno. It seems people with a univer have problems with the car running right before the tune. I have to drive the car right at 50+ miles to the dyno. I have no truck or trailer, so I think it's gonna be a real PITA to get it there. OK so 42#ers and and a univer. If it doesn't make at least 400 hp at the wheels I'm gonna burn it to the ground! Seems like Houston performance is the place to buy them.
If you sit with the car for a little while (30 seconds - 1 minute), you shouldn't have a problem with it running. I have #42 injectors and a #42 3.5" Univer on my car right now in preparation for the blower install and the car will not idle by itself unless I stay with it for a minute or so from a cold start. My car is dyno tuned for #30's on an N/A setup in open loop (does not use the O2's at all) and it will still run just fine if I feather the gas a little for a minute or so to keep it alive. No one should have a problem keeping the car at idle if you do this, so I wouldn't worry.
Sounds good. I just put the car up for sale in the Auto Trader, but I'm having second thoughts now. Think I'll sell the notch back instead, and keep the hatch. I just hardly ever drive the car because it isn't tuned to my liking and I'm not sure if my 30#ers with a FMU are enough.
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