Dyno Day results: "Your car has big problems"... HELP

**kobra94** · 06-11-2003, 04:18 PM

thats encouraging. my 3.5 is sitting in my garage right now, hoping to be installed this weekend. guess i'll find out. ken

**blownwindsor** · 06-11-2003, 04:32 PM

mine is a 3 inch never knew they had bigger ones.

**kobra94** · 06-11-2003, 06:45 PM

3" = 75mm roughly and 3.5"= 80 mm even rougher. man was it a pain to get a sleeve to connect the univer to the T/B . ken

**WA2FAST** · 06-12-2003, 06:41 AM

Yea tell me about it... it was a complete pain to get this thing to fit. Well, the update is so so nice... Jim at Pro-M absolutely refueses to look at the meter even though I am local and told him I had it out of the car and in my hand and I could have it up to him in 10 minutes to at least flow on the bench. He is 100% certain that my car has "other issues" and that it's not the meters fault. He gave me a million things to check and said that he doesn't want to see the meter, he wants my car up there to look at and after going over the car very theroughly, if nothing is wrong with it, then he would at that point look into the meter being bad. What a crock if you ask me. I had to TOW my car up to Walsh to begin with becuase it doesn't work! The last thing I want to do is tow it from walsh's shop to Jim's shop! He was rude on the phone and gave me 0 satisfaction. I am upset with how I was treated as I have known him for years. Even not knowing who I was, there was no right for him to be speaking to anyone the way he was with me... especialy dealing in a customer service field. He had no intentions in looking at his product at all and was blaiming it on everything else. I understand that there are a million possibilities for problems with cars, but honestly, it seems as if these problems with Pro-M are becoming more and more often.

I picked up the car from Walsh's because it's just dead weight there. I towed it home last night, I don't know what I am goign to do. I do NOT want to take it over to Pro-M... especially how I was treated, so I just dno't know. Walsh could not beleive how he acted (but at the same time, he was not supprised... just couldn't beleive how I was treated, especially being a long customer and big supporter of his). I don't know where I stand now, I am still in the same place as I was before I took it to Walsh, there is nothing he can do with it since it is totaly not doing anything right. I will keep you guys posted. Bad day yesterday.

**blownwindsor** · 06-12-2003, 09:17 AM

what is your meter calibrated for.

**WA2FAST** · 06-12-2003, 09:43 AM

#42 of course. I am going to try a few things since I have the car in my posession now (it's at home in the garage). I am going to follow the text book way of doing the battery move which is to run welding cable for both the + and - up to the front, use the 2AWG cable for the alt. to the battery, run the cut-off switch, and run the dedicated ground cable that is at least 10AWG directly from the battery to the ground on the computer harness and see if that doesn't clear some of this up. I have a feeling that since I have a nasty part throttle miss (because it is going pig rich), if I do this and get that miss to dissapear, then I will take it back to the dyno to see what's going on. If you look at his site in the troubleshooting section, there is a lot of valuable information there... to do things 100% text book with the whole car and so on, but I don't know anyone that has followed all of his rules and had problems like this... The fact of the matter is that at WOT, the meter is the only thing being read... therefor IT is the problem... but let me finish re-wiring the + and - first and see what happens. If I can't get it to run right, maybe I could put your meter on my car to see if it works any better. I have an A9L computer... what about you?

**blownwindsor** · 06-12-2003, 12:05 PM

well if you need help let me know I have two mass air meters one is a c/l and the other one is a prom m univer both calibrated for 42 pound injectors.

**WA2FAST** · 06-12-2003, 12:13 PM

Wow... that would be awesome... thank you very much. I will let you know for sure. I am going to get the wiring as solid as possible so that Jim doesn't have a leg to stand on when pointing fingers elswhere... because it seems like that is the game that he wants to play here. At that point, I will try my meter out again, if that doesn't work, then I will most definitely give you a call, thank you very much.

Do you have an A9L compuer?

**John91coupe** · 06-13-2003, 12:18 PM

Don,

Being that you are running an EEC have you checked for any codes? That might give you a direction to start trouble shooting. Hope it's not electrical, I HATE electrical problems. The idea of trying out blownwindsor's meters would be the first thing I would do though. If either one of them works then it will save you a lot of time looking for nothing.

As for Pro-M, I have had so many bad calibrations from them that I was getting sick and tired of having to plead my case and sending meters back for recal. This was when Bob Atwood was running the show and he was a great guy to work with. He always had time to talk to customers and provided good feedback. He was so customer orientated that when the business changed hands the new owner/s prevented him from receiving calls because he would spend time with them. He told me this himself, God rest his soul.

Anyway, hope you find the gremlin soon and let me know if there is anything I can do to help.

John

**WA2FAST** · 06-13-2003, 12:46 PM

John, I haven't checked for any codes yet because there are a few electrical things I would like to look into this weekend first. The actual blower is not causing any problems, so I know that is not the issue... I did however move wiring into the drivers side fender as well as move the battery in the trunk. I was EXTREEMLY careful and thorough as always when I did this to avoid any problems, but I am going to double check myself first. One thing I did not do was that ground wire from the actual battery to the block, and also from the actual battery to the same screw that grounds the computer. I did make a solid ground in the hatch for the battery and a solid ground up front for everything, but they are not actually connected to the battery. I have been told to do this just to ensure solid grounds and to eliminate this as a possibility. Hopefully this clears up my problems, but you never know... Walsh was convinced that it was the meter. I am going to try those things, look at a few others, and then see if I can get that part throttle miss out of there. If I do these things and my part throttle miss goes away, I am pretty sure I got it taken care of because at least I know now that my A/F was 18:1 at idle (btw, is it really bad to run the car with that lean of an idle jut to warm up?), 8:1 at part throttle (that is my miss problem right there) and then back up to 16:1 at WOT. Obviously I won't be going to WOT, but it may explain the erratic behavior of the car if I fix those things and the part throttle problem goes away. We'll see. I will at that point check Anthony's meters out (very nice of you btw, thank you very much) and see how those run my car. I'm not going to give the car any power till it gets on the dyno because I know that there is way too much timing for non-intercooled boost.

I'm sure you didn't read my post over at the corral, but here's the link to it. That shows 3 honest to god Pro-M issues very recently, mine included. My post explains a friends issues that I was helping with, what a mess. http://www.corral.net/forums/showth...threadid=313838

Anyway, thank you very much John, I will let you know how it goes this weekend.

**WA2FAST** · 06-13-2003, 12:52 PM

I forgot to ask a couple of questions actually...

1. Is it bad to let the car idle being that lean? I can bump my fuel pressure up to buffer it at least a little, but I am just talking for testing purposes, to let it warm up and so on... am I going to hurt it?

2. Is 1/0 welding cable REALLY neccessary to go from the battery to both + and - in the car? What do I need honestly. The kit came with 2awg... this seemed enough, but maybe not? What gauge cable for the alt.? I am running 4awg just as I was before... this is enough isn't it? 1/0 on the batt and 2awg on the alt. is what I have heard, but it does honestly seem a bit overkill... how honestly should I do this?

**John91coupe** · 06-13-2003, 04:09 PM

Originally posted by WA2FAST
I forgot to ask a couple of questions actually...

1. Is it bad to let the car idle being that lean? I can bump my fuel pressure up to buffer it at least a little, but I am just talking for testing purposes, to let it warm up and so on... am I going to hurt it?

2. Is 1/0 welding cable REALLY neccessary to go from the battery to both + and - in the car? What do I need honestly. The kit came with 2awg... this seemed enough, but maybe not? What gauge cable for the alt.? I am running 4awg just as I was before... this is enough isn't it? 1/0 on the batt and 2awg on the alt. is what I have heard, but it does honestly seem a bit overkill... how honestly should I do this?

You shouldn't cause any damage by being lean at idle since there is no real power required.

I have been using 2 AWG for my battery cable for several years and haven't had any problems. I also have 4 AWG for the alternator. My alternator is a 190 amp so I am thinking of upgrading it to some 2 AWG at some point. I think for a 130 amp alternator the 4 would be fine.

**WA2FAST** · 06-13-2003, 08:17 PM

Thank you... what did you do for your ground... that is what I am kind of torn between. Did you do 2AWG or 4AWG? Where did you connect it to?

**blownwindsor** · 06-14-2003, 09:15 AM

I have a stock 94 mustang computer I forgot which computer code It was.

**WA2FAST** · 06-14-2003, 07:52 PM

Well, I know that isn't the same computer, but the callibration tables may be the same, I'm pretty sure the plug to the meter is anyway. So do I use 2awg ground cable to the front or what?

Thread: Dyno Day results: "Your car has big problems"... HELP

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