i tore into the 351 windsor(hich happens to be a 358) i just purchased and found alot of good and alot of bad. lets get to the bad. it dosen't have a matching set of rods. it's got 6-69' rods and a 92' and a 94'. bummed :( i need 2- 69 rods(or from thaT ERA 69-74) and i'm ready to make some power. My budget has been gulped up into the abyss or else i'd just order a set OF 4340 rods.
any advice or info will help....
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
my advise wait and get rods. I ran stock rods in my 69 for alot of years. I got a little gready with the NOS tune one time and rods, block, crank are all now new because I blew my old ones to pieces. All the new stuff cost me alot more than a good set of rods.
1969 Mustang coupe. 428 FE NOS 10.30 at 130 mph. 1991 LX hatch 302, GT40X ported,Trickflow street heat,E-cam 1.7's, GFORCE T-5. 31 spline with 3.73's. Vortech V2-SQ with AFM powerpipe.Snow Performance Boost Cooler. Daily Driver 11.41 at 124.00. Now a 331
i just don't know if i'll have the money for a whole assembly though. cause i have to buy pistons. your advice is dually noted btw.
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
Upon further reveiw with the regional ford engine guru, i was read the ol' "ounce of prevention, pound of cure." Truck rods would be marginal and we know what happens to marginal around these parts eh? I'm gonna save for some eagles' and some pistons. Anybody reccomend a rod lenght/piston combo for my 351 and my TFS Wedgies?
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
LOL Brent if your gonna do all that stuff then you might as well contact Eagle(username) over in the corral and just buy a matched stroker kit. Play your cards right and you're right around a grand for a good crank rods and pistons.
Steve
1996 Acura Integra GSR
05 Pissat TDI
99 F250 PSD CC SB 6spd 4x4.....89LX Notch, 429Big Block(Rolling chassis).
Ditto on what Steve recommended, but then again it's easy to spend money that's not yours :D
Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th
wit da tree fitty one and 10-12 lbs. of boost i can be in danger of having to buy the 9 sec. competition license with the right tranny. and i've never heard of anyone braking a windsor crank going 6000 rpms. I'll get the good rods, pistons and pay for quality machine work. Besides it's 40 over and will yield about 360 cid anyway. It's not in the budget steve and it is a real bummer. there's nothing i love more than a big cube windsor.
what if i said i planned on making around 600 hp with the lil 1K? :D Crazy? they used to do it alot(B and R Trim) till they had the big blowers come out.
i bought the revised 1000 cause it was upgradable to the 2000. I might as well be one of the first to make sure it works like they said it should. ;)
and the 351 should more than handle it. But i'm gonna flat wring out the 1000 as they don't don't bring much used anyway.
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
Seems to me though brent that by the time you pay someone to go through a crank (machine work) and buy a set of rods by themselves and pistons by themselves you will spend as much as just buying a stroker kit that needs nothing more than balancing.:)
I just don't want to see you put yourself into a position where you are spending 5 dollars to save a buck.:)
Steve
1996 Acura Integra GSR
05 Pissat TDI
99 F250 PSD CC SB 6spd 4x4.....89LX Notch, 429Big Block(Rolling chassis).
well it seems to me those "budget stroker kits" that i could afford are gonna support the blower that i'm gonna run this fall. Mainly it's the price of forged crank, then having the block clearanced. and then my 42's wouldn't be enough. yada yada. and there again i have no desire to go faster than 10.0. i've got some shopping around to do so we'll see. I've still gotta buy all my fuel sys. stuff, a converter, new brakes(very important LOL), and of course new tires.
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
btw i'm definatly not trying to save a buck. I've been looking at long rod setups.
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
Brent whats the difference between the other 2 rods? Length "I doubt it", If it is the weight difference get them all balanced together. Is it the steel difference? Than save your money and buy a matching set of forged :)
Mark
Mark
90 GT, With a Forged 383 Chevy, AFR 227 heads, BDS 6-71 Blower with 2 750 edelbrock carbs, all braided lines, TH-400 reverse manual valve body to back it up, and so much more.....
Want to see?????
Old Times with 302...
T-5: 12.671@110.52mph(1.951 60ft.)
Tremec TKO: 12.275@110.89(1.758 60ft)
Avatar Collection:
thats what i'm gonna do more than likely. I'm almost dead set on eagle rods as they have really good quality control and my friend runs a set in top sportsman in his 540. Gonna talk to brian @ ad which happens to be "eagle" on corral and i'll go from there. I just bought a Lm-1 wideband off of corral and i can't wait till it gets here.
89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:
Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D
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