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Thread: Blowing oil - part 2

  1. #1
    Senior SCH Member
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    Question Blowing oil - part 2

    Many of you are aware of my oil blowby issues on the YS boosted 327. I've recently tried two different PCV valves designed for turbo applications, as well as venting the valve cover. But the dipstick continues to get blown out, and now the problem is getting much worse. As of yesterday, I'm still blowing oil out of the dipstick tube, but now the volume has significantly increased. But more importantly, I've got smoke coming from the tailpipe(s). This happens if I accelerate the car with too much load for the gear I'm in - for example, flooring the gas when in second gear while rolling at 10-15 mph and going uphill. If I hold the gas to 6K rpm, I'll see smoke at the top end. It's possible that it's just oil burning off the headers, but I doubt it.

    Here's where I need your help. I suspect that the rings on one or more pistons have gone bad, leading to excessive crankcase pressurization and the resulting blowby. One possible reason that this happened may be linked to the first time I threw a belt. I had no clue what was going on, and drove all the way back to the pits before shutting down (probably 2 minutes of driving). By the time I shut down, the radiator had boiled over. But I was an idiot and failed to pay attention to engine temperature, so I don't know how hot things got in there (and have since learned to look at both oil and temp gauges as soon as something doesn't seem right). Is it possible that the block got too hot and damaged one or more rings? The block is a brand new Ford stocker, and the internals are all forged with chromoly rings. Also, this problem started right after that incident.

    The other possiblity is insufficient fuel delivery, causing one or more cylinders to run too lean. Doug warned me about this potential problem when he saw that I was running a blown 327 with stock rails. Considering I have 12 pounds of boost and 42 lb injectors, could this be the culprit (assuming that my problem is ring related)? Would Aeromotive be the best aftermarket fuel delivery system to look into?

    My plan is to pull the plugs for inspection today to see if there is an obvious problem. But my question is how much should I expect to pay to have new rings installed if that is indeed the problem? Should I even bother? When I talked with Doug the other day, he said the engine is a "ticking timebomb" (I think that's an accurate quote Doug), and I should just run it until it's dead - then get something bigger and stronger. I've thought about doing just this, but the bloody thing is only six months old, and I was expecting a little more life out of it than this. Am I just being overly optimistic about it's expected lifespan?

    BTW - I did run it last night Doug. However I only got 3 passes in before one of my water pump hoses breached. Once I had it fixed, I just called it a night since every pass now pisses more oil onto the engine, and I could see smoke off the starting line in the rearview mirror.
    David

    '03 Mach 1 (Fun)
    '88 GT Hatchback (Fun squared)

  2. #2
    SCH Moderator regattacoupe's Avatar
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    David, Is it possible you have a head gasket seeping under heavy load pressurizing both the coolant and oiling system?

    Someone chime in if i'm way off base....
    89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:





    Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D

  3. #3
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    Your on base Brent. I have seen this many times and it is usually a blown head gasket. After the car is warm remove the spark plugs and do a compression test you will find the cylinder. If you test it with the engine cold you might not find it.

  4. #4
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    Thanks gents. I bought a compression guage last night. My technical assistant (my wife) is sick however, so I may have to wait until next weekend to test compression. If it's just a head gasket, I'll be really happy. Does it make any difference - one way or the other - that the gasket has an o-ring?

  5. #5
    SCH Moderator regattacoupe's Avatar
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    I'm not real sure on that Dave, but if it's seeping you'll find it this way.
    89 Coupe with parts stacked inside of it and about 30#'s of dust on it with no end in sight. :weird:





    Although I am collecting parts for a 12.5:1 393 :D

  6. #6
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    Results are in

    I finished the compression test this morning, here are the results:

    1 = 172
    2 = 173
    3 = 172
    4 = 171
    5 = 168
    6 = 170
    7 = 172
    8 = 170

    Not too shabby, huh? So it looks like my headgasket may be fine. I have a leakdown test scheduled for Wednesday, and I plan on keeping the appointment.

    But in the meantime - I'm still loosing a ton of coolant. Oddly, the loss is worse when the car is pointing downhill rather than uphill. I can see a puddle of coolant pooled right below the thermostat housing where the water pump meets the block. When I'm pointing downhill, the coolant drips from this pool. When pointing uphill, the coolant is leaking from the back of the block, between the oil pan and the bell housing. Now when I last raced the car a week ago, I blew out the hose between the water pump and the section of plumbing that runs to the heater core (at least it used to, now it's been bypassed in the back with a short length of rubber hose). I'm beginning to wonder if the "smoke" I saw was actually steam from a breach in the coolant system.

    So my plan at this point is to replace all the hoses with brand new parts, particularly since the old hoses were used after the new engine was built. Does this sound like a reasonable place to start? I should add that I have carefully examined the hoses and can't see any sign of fluid - could the gasket for the water pump need to be replaced?

    While I'm at it, do I still need to keep the coolant hoses connected that run to the EGR spacer? I talked to a guy a week ago that had eliminated this section and just threw a bolt into the water pump outlet that feeds the plumbing for the heater core. If I eliminate this section, where/how do I reconnect the ECT sensor? How do I block off the back of the intake where the other section from the EGR spacer is connected? My engine is moved back 1", so getting at that space is a major pita. The only reason I want to get rid of this section is to cut down on the number of hoses that could go bad.
    David

    '03 Mach 1 (Fun)
    '88 GT Hatchback (Fun squared)

  7. #7
    Senior SCH Member Chris_H's Avatar
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    Hey David I was having the same problems with coolant depending on how the car was sitting. I would get puddles on the lower intake, it would drip from the back, but yet it was puddled in the front on the timing chain cover. turned out to be the hose going from the lower intake to the throttle body. There was a SMALL hole right at the base of the hose on the lower intake. The only thing that gave it away was a small piece of green thread sticking out from the hose. Might want to check that hose and see if its leaking. It's amazing how much it can spray under pressure!

    Chris
    Elevation kills boost!
    LX = 13.47 @ 102.49, 1.80 60', at 6900' DA
    Cobra = 12.82 @ 109.25, 1.98 60' at 5400' DA

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