Novi2000 Pulley Combinations

[tonyv]

I remember seeing a chart a while ago listing all the different Blower/Crank Pulley combinations and the PSI it would produce. Does anyone know where i can find this chart. THANKS

[Hustler]

I put the thread back to the top Tony. Remember to use the search feature also.

[tonyv]

Thanks for all your help. I tryed using the search function but was not successful.

[Hustler]

No problem. Ya sometimes threads are hard to find.

[tryme56]

Where is the best place to buy cog pullies? Im lookin for 72/31 and what size belt would that be?

[Hustler]

Here is my take on buying cog pulleys. If more people bought the RCD Engineering Cog pulleys http://www.rcdengineering.com/sprocket3.html when changing to a different tooth pulley and or selling/buying from others it would benefit all as being a cheaper alternative to having to buy a whole new pulley along with the fact that currently the procharger/paxton/vortech pulleys are not interchangeable because of how the shafts are keyed. Now with the RCD pulleys you buy a hub one time that corresponds with the kind of blower/key type you have which is either a vortech/paxton/procharger. You then buy the outer sprocket which determines how many teeth are on the pulley and bolt that to the hub. Then next time you go to change out the pulley instead of having to fork over 70.00 bux for a whole other pulley that still only works for say your paxton, you only pay only 34.00 for the outer sprocket. If you want to sell the other sprocket you now can sell it to people with procharger/paxton/vortech instead of having to buy a complete pulley that you have to sell to a limited crowd like say only paxton people. If all the guys who have cog pulleys on their centrifugal blowers did this, we could all swap pulleys a lot cheaper.

They only sell them in 50mm as far as I know which will work fine with a 35mm belt since it is larger, but these blower pulleys are not gated. Some companies like ASP offer gated blower cog pulleys, mostly for 35mm setups. As long as your idler has a lip I think you will be fine. I decided to have the crank pulley gated instead of the blower pulleys since I planned on staying with one crank pulley and only changing blower pulleys possibly.

[Hustler]

I forgot to add to this that you can buy the cogged crank pulley from ASP Racing www.aspracing.com 35mm 50mm, gated, not gated, w/e you want.

[slowfive0]

I agree totally! I bought a pulley combo for my Novi and was only able to get a 33 tooth unit. The only other pulley that was close was 29!! I have a 78 tooth crank pulley so that was too much. I would like to fine a 31 tooth pulley if you know anyone?

Second question, my alignment isn't perfect and my belt is trying to walk around. I wonder if gating the crank pulley would fix this or do I have to have alignment absolutely perfect? I know most of the time, this isn't possible with bracket flex, etc. Any input here? Thanks for the help :)

Here is my take on buying cog pulleys. If more people bought the RCD Engineering Cog pulleys http://www.rcdengineering.com/sprocket3.html when changing to a different tooth pulley and or selling/buying from others it would benefit all as being a cheaper alternative to having to buy a whole new pulley along with the fact that currently the procharger/paxton/vortech pulleys are not interchangeable because of how the shafts are keyed. Now with the RCD pulleys you buy a hub one time that corresponds with the kind of blower/key type you have which is either a vortech/paxton/procharger. You then buy the outer sprocket which determines how many teeth are on the pulley and bolt that to the hub. Then next time you go to change out the pulley instead of having to fork over 70.00 bux for a whole other pulley that still only works for say your paxton, you only pay only 34.00 for the outer sprocket. If you want to sell the other sprocket you now can sell it to people with procharger/paxton/vortech instead of having to buy a complete pulley that you have to sell to a limited crowd like say only paxton people. If all the guys who have cog pulleys on their centrifugal blowers did this, we could all swap pulleys a lot cheaper.

They only sell them in 50mm as far as I know which will work fine with a 35mm belt since it is larger, but these blower pulleys are not gated. Some companies like ASP offer gated blower cog pulleys, mostly for 35mm setups. As long as your idler has a lip I think you will be fine. I decided to have the crank pulley gated instead of the blower pulleys since I planned on staying with one crank pulley and only changing blower pulleys possibly.

[Hustler]

I'm not sure a gated crank pulley would help. It might but even my belt does not rest on the gated lip on the crank pulley. There must be some other area you need to shim or something to align the pulleys. So even with the lip on the idler it walks around huh? Atleast in my experience I haven't witnessed bracket flex. I have heard that a lot with the Vortechs because of their thin brackets but not really with the Novi 2000's. If the blower pulley does not align, you need to get some washers from a hardware store. I had to run some washers to put in front of the pulley with an ASP 10 rib I bought that needed shimming.

[slowfive0]

I agree that the gated pulley won't fix my concern right now. Probably isn't even necessaary if I fix the alignment from what you're saying. My bracket won't flex (to the naked eye anyways) when I rev the motor. It could under 20+lbs of boost though - LOL! Maybe not, but I assumed it might--that is why I was wondering about a gated crank pulley.

Currently, my gated tensioner keeps the belt on (at idle/revving it up), but I'm sure it would jump off under boost. It will run at an uneven angle across both the pulleys. If I rev it, the belt will jump to the back of the blower pulley and the front of the crank. As it does this, it will go a little offf of the edge of the blower pulley and starts to grind the belt! (You can see a ton of dust on the bracket)

I know I need to fix the alignment, but it isn't easy since the alignment has to be perfect with cogs. I spent all night last weekend trying to get it ready for a race last Saturday--never got there :( I'm sure I'll get there, just a PIA...

What do you know about those aftermarket/Renegade brackets. Those look like they may take care of my problem and they are awesome looking!!! (My brackets are the black dual bracket design).

One last thing, my cast bracket fits flat against the head, but there is a little gap between the block and the bracket? I filled the gap with shims, but just wondered if anyone else ever had this problem?

Thanks for the info and btw....This Blower/Combo flat out sounds EVIL :evil:
The throttle response and exhaust note is completely different from my S-trim combo.

I'm not sure a gated crank pulley would help. It might but even my belt does not rest on the gated lip on the crank pulley. There must be some other area you need to shim or something to align the pulleys. So even with the lip on the idler it walks around huh? Atleast in my experience I haven't witnessed bracket flex. I have heard that a lot with the Vortechs because of their thin brackets but not really with the Novi 2000's. If the blower pulley does not align, you need to get some washers from a hardware store. I had to run some washers to put in front of the pulley with an ASP 10 rib I bought that needed shimming.

[Hustler]

I know my belt does move a lil when I rev it also. Does the 35mm belt fit snug between the gated idlers, or does it have room to move back and forth? I took the level outside and my belt is actually slightly leaning downward toward the motor side. So if anything it would slide toward the brackets/blower. But your belt is sliding off the front side right.. toward the radiator?

Anyway you can get digital pics and post them on here so we can see your pullies and how they sit etc. So you are sure that all the brackets and blower connected to the middle bracket are flush?

[slowfive0]

Originally, there was no play (no binding either), but no play betwen the tensioner and the belt. Now I have a 1/16" due to belt fraying. The belt will walk a little off of the crank or at least to the very edge, but doesn't seem to be a problem just yet (only revving it up in garage). The belt is walking off the back of the blower pulley though and that edge is kind of sharp (RCD pulley). It starts to grind at the belt when it does that :(

I have shimmed both the head and tensioner many times and I"m close, but it has to be perfect. What a PIA! I didn't make my deadline (last event of year) so I parked the BIATCH!! LOL! I will be attempting it again very soon. FYI, I've had the belt pitch both ways depeending on shims. I guess I'll get there, but what a PIA! I thought the Novi brackets were perfect? I guess not-LOL! SOunds like you might have problems too?

I know my belt does move a lil when I rev it also. Does the 35mm belt fit snug between the gated idlers, or does it have room to move back and forth? I took the level outside and my belt is actually slightly leaning downward toward the motor side. So if anything it would slide toward the brackets/blower. But your belt is sliding off the front side right.. toward the radiator?

Anyway you can get digital pics and post them on here so we can see your pullies and how they sit etc. So you are sure that all the brackets and blower connected to the middle bracket are flush?

[Hustler]

I've never had belt problems, knock on wood. I have talked to other people who have. I've learned a lot from other people's experiences and received good advice from people who have gone through the trials themselves. The Novi 2000 brackets are practically the best out there, you shouldn't have to shim the head unit anywhere on the middle bracket or the front bracket. I can understand the main brace that bolts to the head. I have had the block decked and the heads shaved and had to put the main brace on an endmill and open up the holes so I could adjust the brace to match up to the block hole. But that's it.

My belt does move a lil when you rev it up. I wasn't sure where to tension it at in the beginning so I just rev'd it up a couple times and I could see the belt flopping around (deflection), so I just tightened it a lil more and it seems to be ok. I've made about 5 full passes on the dyno when I was tuning it up to 7000 and everything held up fine. Having a gated crank pulley might be the way to go but its definitely not a gaurantee that it will fix your problem. I'll try to take a video of the motor reving so you can see how much exactly it moves.

I know Novi357 has gone through many belt setups including 35mm cog on his car, I haven't seen him post here in awhile but he would be a good person to message to see what issues he might have had to resolve.

Look at this photo in my photopost, He has run 35mm fine from what I've seen of the car at the track. Though he has a gated blower pulley, so maybe that would work for you.

[slowfive0]

Great info. There are a couple of things that concern me:
1. The base (cast) bracket doesn't fit perfect. My vortech S-trim kit fit my car perfect (with stock block/same heads). WIth the dart block, the bracket bolts to the head perfect, but doesn't touch the boss on the block. I have to add about .125 worth of shims to get it right. Is this the NOVI bracket or the Dart block? Good question....
2. My blower head was cocked back out of alignment in two planes. The top of the blower pulley (lets say 12:00 o-clock) is farther away from the radiator then the bottom (6:00 o-clock). On the other plane, the 9:00 o-clock part of the blower pulley (Me facing the engine from the front of the car looking back) is closer to the radiator then the 3:00 o-clock side. The tensioner seemed a little off, but may have been an illusion due to the blower alignment issue.

Here is what I know about the kit (used). It was supposedly on a car out in Cali that went 9.60's or 9.70's. If that is true then obviously it was pretty straight? Currently, I have no other accessories bolted to the blower bracket setup. I now have an electric water pump and I moved the alternator to the driver side. I made spacers for both the smog pump and the alternator. Even if I take the spacers out and let the bracket center itself, it is still off. I have even tried adding shims to either side (alternator or smog pump) with out resolving the concern. I wonder if my brackets are bent or something stupid like that....

My other buddy had a novi kit with cogs and had no problems whatsoever!? I don't know what to do short of "drinking a little more" ;-)

I've never had belt problems, knock on wood. I have talked to other people who have. I've learned a lot from other people's experiences and received good advice from people who have gone through the trials themselves. The Novi 2000 brackets are practically the best out there, you shouldn't have to shim the head unit anywhere on the middle bracket or the front bracket. I can understand the main brace that bolts to the head. I have had the block decked and the heads shaved and had to put the main brace on an endmill and open up the holes so I could adjust the brace to match up to the block hole. But that's it.

My belt does move a lil when you rev it up. I wasn't sure where to tension it at in the beginning so I just rev'd it up a couple times and I could see the belt flopping around (deflection), so I just tightened it a lil more and it seems to be ok. I've made about 5 full passes on the dyno when I was tuning it up to 7000 and everything held up fine. Having a gated crank pulley might be the way to go but its definitely not a gaurantee that it will fix your problem. I'll try to take a video of the motor reving so you can see how much exactly it moves.

I know Novi357 has gone through many belt setups including 35mm cog on his car, I haven't seen him post here in awhile but he would be a good person to message to see what issues he might have had to resolve.

Look at this photo in my photopost, He has run 35mm fine from what I've seen of the car at the track. Though he has a gated blower pulley, so maybe that would work for you.

[FoMoCo1]

at what point do you guys consider stepping up to a bigger bypass?
how much will the stock bosch unit hold up to?