What to do, need help pretty quick

**PNY PWR** · 12-05-2004, 04:36 AM

What do I do about this? I really wasn't expecting the discharge to not line up at all. :blah: Is the tube cut to fit? In the pic I have the TB end flush against the TB. Guess I could take some off the s/c end at an angle.

**92 coupe** · 12-05-2004, 04:42 AM

In one of the recent 5.0 magazines they ran into this problem with a NOVI 2000 install. They simply took a sawzall and trimmed the pipe. In there case it was because the engine was slightly offset. Make sure you check to make sure everything is where it is suppost to be before you trim that pipe. If you have an aftermarket K member, that could be the culprit, if not something may be out of line. If everything checks out okay, trim it.

**PNY PWR** · 12-05-2004, 04:49 AM

Thanks a million man. I did check out the motor mounts and just generallywhile under the car. Everything looks ok to me and the motor is tight. I'm going to make a pipe at work anyways pretty soon, I'll just hack this one for now and do motor mounts/make new pipe.

Thanks again

I hope you get your problem solved too. Something has to be up if you use to run lower FP. I know how you feel, running at the high pressure doesn't get to the root of the problem. Maybe get a new cheap gauge to see if the other is bad.

**PNY PWR** · 12-05-2004, 04:52 AM

Wait a minute, the s/c is bolted to the engine. The engine could be all cockeyed and not cause this problem.

**5150 LX** · 12-05-2004, 08:41 AM

Just trim it, this was common even when they supplied that POS plastic discharge tube.....

**regattacoupe** · 12-05-2004, 10:33 AM

Also you may need to clock the volute on the blower. This may help the problem as well.

**5150 LX** · 12-05-2004, 10:54 AM

Originally Posted by regattacoupe

Also you may need to clock the volute on the blower. This may help the problem as well.

Duh, yes please do this before you hack the pipe up, lol. Thanks Brent!!! Damn & I wasn't even drinking :D

**sinner** · 12-05-2004, 03:10 PM

I had to cut mine quite a bit

**PNY PWR** · 12-05-2004, 07:07 PM

Originally Posted by regattacoupe

Also you may need to clock the volute on the blower. This may help the problem as well.

What does that mean? :shocked:

**5150 LX** · 12-05-2004, 07:36 PM

On the head unit itself there are numerous small bolts that are located around the housing, they're the one's with the small triangular washers. Loosen those, and then rotate the housing so that the discharge will be in more of a 9-10 o'clock position. You're gonna more than likely have to remove the headunit from the bracketry.......Don't forget to snug those bolts back down. :D

**5150 LX** · 12-05-2004, 07:45 PM

Here's a pic that shows a couple of the bolts I was trying to explain.....it's attached.

**PNY PWR** · 12-06-2004, 01:53 AM

Thanks alot man, the intructions suck for this kit. It says nothing about what to do as far as fitting the system, which is important because everything fits so tight. I did adjust the (clocking?) of the unit because the discharge wouldn't let the hood down. Of course I found this out after hooking everything up :blah:

Had to get some longer bolts to replace those long ones for the brackets, some of them were too short. Is this going to take the 84.4 belt that shows up for a stang w/ no AC? I have a Ford AC delete and stock pulleys.

After I got the whole thing in and tried a 83.5 belt (which is too short) I noticed that a bolt down by where the belt comes off the alt. and heads to the water pump was hitting the belt. The instructions said to put that bolt in from the rear b4 puting the bracket on, but the nut is thicker than the bolt head and hits the belt. Had to tare the whole thing down again to flip that bolt, I also ground the bolt head down a couple mm's to make sure.

As mentioned b4 I had to cut the discharge tube. Of course I did that before knowing about the clock adjustment, so the cut wasn't right. The coupler than came with the kit (pipe to s/c) no longer would work because of the big gap. Had to cut one end off my stock rubber intake tube to make a longer coupler.

I bought an idler pulley from a friend because I don't run a smog pump. That didn't work beacause that little support that goes from the alt. to the smog pump had nowhere to bolt to. Ended up gutting my old smog pump and got that taken care of. Sealed it real good to keep crap out of it and regreased the rear bearing.

Looks like when the motor torques (if it will even run) it's going to smash the MAF and filter against the inner fender. Guess we'll see.

The FMU wouldn't mount where they said it would. Ended up mounting it to the passenger side of the AC lines on the firewall.

Guess that's all the bitchin I have to for now, till I try to make it run tomorrow. If I can find the right accessory belt that is.

Thanks for listening and for all the help,
Toby

**5150 LX** · 12-06-2004, 06:43 AM

Ain't the rhelm of "bolt-ons" fun, lol. Well now you why most of say to toss Paxton's directions and just post up one here.......

You'll get it worked out, we want some more install pics!!

Let us know if ya need anything else....