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Creating a home brew cooler kit...
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Thread: Creating a home brew cooler kit...

  1. #1
    SCH Member Nutzy19's Avatar
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    Creating a home brew cooler kit...

    any ideas...
    Im tired of 200 dollars of extortion for something that we can fab ourselves cheap.....just have to get past that dipstick/fluid transfer tube and the rest is easy...

  2. #2
    Senior SCH Member TheHawk05's Avatar
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    EDIT:

    Sorry for my previous off topic post......I thought we're were talking water injection for some reason :laugh:

    Note to self: Stay off the forum when you're half asleep
    Last edited by TheHawk05; 07-24-2005 at 12:08 PM.

  3. #3
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    You can take the unit apart and tap two lines into the unit. Easy and cheap and use the same import fuel pump which sells at NAPA for $30 and use a large trans cooler with better flow tube design (B&M) $50 and your set. You can do this better design for $120 and still use the dipstick for measuring fluid depth.

  4. #4
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    Where do you tap into the supercharger for the oil lines?

  5. #5
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    I will find pictures I have them someplace. You modify the internal pump with a line and put a drain line in the bottom of the unit. If I can't find it Craig at Paradise might send it to you. He at one time offered the conversion which has been done on race units since '91 for those who wished it by Paxton.

  6. #6
    Senior SCH Member pavement pounde's Avatar
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    Why not just tap 1 outgoing in the bottom and 1 incomming on the side ?
    Also do nor forget to use a clear fuel filter so you can see the pump is working.
    Greets, Marco
    '91 Chevy 496SS, Edelbrock Pro-flo 2 injection, alu. GMPP heads, blowercam, coolmist water injection, turbo in the works.
    *VIDEO* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZOdXg0TOdw

  7. #7
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    You can do it and others have but you must worry about the pickup tube inside not getting fluid because the pump is moving around so much fluid it might miss the pickup tube and also if you over fill the unit the internal pump will lock up because of head pressure on the spring. When Paxton or now Craig modifies the unit they take the check ball and spring out and the pump now is just for transfer and the main line that is installed in the top is a direct path to the internal pump. The unit becomes a dry setup in a way because the unit moves the fluid and dumps it really fast. This is the reason the tube was designed and pulls and replace fluid at the same time.

  8. #8
    SCH Member Nutzy19's Avatar
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    well I would like to see those pics....Craig is the one charging alot for the kit....I doubt he would want to help me do it cheaper

  9. #9
    SCH Moderator "SN Guru" speedytang's Avatar
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    shoot, That kit is now cheap when I purchased my kit in '90 it was $325 and that was in '90 money that unit at $200 is a steal.
    The easy way to do it is tap in the top and make the drain not at the bottom but at the side like 8 oclock position when looking at the front pulley and use a low volumn pump like the $30 Napa pump which is what comes with the current unit that way your sure that the unit will not miss fluid in the pickup tube and you don't pressurize the housing since you will be using a low pressure (5-6psi) pump.

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