It's common to see people run the Vortech 8" crank pulley for Novi 1k combos. The Vortech 8" crank pulley that I ordered straight from Vortech would have lined up and fit my Novi 2k perfect if there were no water pump pulley rubbing the belt. I had it all on there and a belt on all the pulleys. It all lined up fine.
1991 LX hatch AOD - Dart block, 3.25" crank, H-beams, Ross pistons, Novi 2k, TW heads, Performer RPM, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF, Bennett cam, 60lb inj., AFM Powerpipe, Kooks LTs, Snow Performance methanol/water injection, enough fuel for the Space Shuttle Discovery
Old Combo - 148k mile stock bottom end, P&P E7s, AOD, NX wet kit
428.3rwhp 566.7 rwtq
Whoever said money can't buy happiness never had a wife with breast implants. ;)
Sounds good. I have an electric WP so no issue.
351 "stockshort block": -Vortech T-trim (21 psi), Trick Flow Heads, Lunati Cam, Weldon fuel system, Lentech AOD., 3.55 gears, 27" Hoosier QTP's, 3500# with me
-545 rwhp
-10.02 @ 135mph---Is 9.99 to much to ask?:freaks:
-1.42-- 60'
Originally Posted by regattacoupe
they said the same thing that the vortech 8" 10 rib is different offset than the paxton 8" 10 rib that they make and they call the paxton a custom pulley versus the vortech which they produce so they can mark up the price.... :blah: what a crock..... i run an edelbrock water pump with the cobra water pump pulley.... what do you guys think....??? any chance of getting the 8" on there????
93 black gt
They probably told me that it would work for both since I already paid the Big $$ for them to make the 8.6" 10 rib for me. As I was concerned about my transition from Vortech to Paxton.
Basically Crank pullies are interchangeable, but the SC pullies are not. As for the mounting position of Vortech Vs. Paxton that must be differnet (paxton up or in closer to motor) since the Vortech are no problem for clearance while Paxton is with an 8" pulley.
351 "stockshort block": -Vortech T-trim (21 psi), Trick Flow Heads, Lunati Cam, Weldon fuel system, Lentech AOD., 3.55 gears, 27" Hoosier QTP's, 3500# with me
-545 rwhp
-10.02 @ 135mph---Is 9.99 to much to ask?:freaks:
-1.42-- 60'
The 8" crank pulley will physically go on, but you won't get the belt to work.
1991 LX hatch AOD - Dart block, 3.25" crank, H-beams, Ross pistons, Novi 2k, TW heads, Performer RPM, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF, Bennett cam, 60lb inj., AFM Powerpipe, Kooks LTs, Snow Performance methanol/water injection, enough fuel for the Space Shuttle Discovery
Old Combo - 148k mile stock bottom end, P&P E7s, AOD, NX wet kit
428.3rwhp 566.7 rwtq
Whoever said money can't buy happiness never had a wife with breast implants. ;)
Overall it's a nightmare anyway you do it now that I have a Novi2K.
The belt sizes available are a bit too lose and the next one smaller won't even go on if you change to a 3" like I did. I considered having a crank pulley made but with a stock block and all I read about problems with the water pump pully, I changed the blower pulley. I can not believe this problem exist. I'm at 14lbs now with a 3" and really get a very small life out of the belt because it's barely small enough to tighten. I can't go to a 2.75" because I'd be at too much boost for a stock block. I have a 55.5'" belt now and the next one down is 54.0. I think. The 54 won't even go on with the tensioner all the way up and the 55 reaches the end of the tensioner stroke almost from day 1.
When I go to a dart block I will be changing things for sure.
1993 LX 5.0 Black interior
Polished Novi2000, 42lb FMS injectors, Edlebrock performer intake, C&L 80mm, 75mm Pro products Throttle body, BBK U/L shortys, 3:73's, Frame tied/welded, welded rear housing, Welded in tourqe box kits for up and low, Moser 31 spline axles, Auburn Pro center, UPR dbl adj uppers, UPR adj lowers, QA1's, Eibach Springs, H-pipe w/Hooker maxflows, Aeromotive regulator, Walboro 255Hi-P, FP gage, shift light, Accel coil, PMS, MSD 6AL, LM1 w/ RPM option. Glide w/pro brake, JW housing, PTC10" converter and the "wheel" flywheel.
I couldn't get the 2.75" to work either because of lack of belt size. If anyone knows how/where to get the belt for a stock lower and 2.75" blower pulley, I'd like to know.
1991 LX hatch AOD - Dart block, 3.25" crank, H-beams, Ross pistons, Novi 2k, TW heads, Performer RPM, 75mm TB, 80mm MAF, Bennett cam, 60lb inj., AFM Powerpipe, Kooks LTs, Snow Performance methanol/water injection, enough fuel for the Space Shuttle Discovery
Old Combo - 148k mile stock bottom end, P&P E7s, AOD, NX wet kit
428.3rwhp 566.7 rwtq
Whoever said money can't buy happiness never had a wife with breast implants. ;)
I went with a UPR powerpipe and my boost went from a max of 13.8 to 16.5 at only 5500! For a stock block I may step back to the 3.5" blower pulley. If I do stay with the 3" I figure the best solution to this problem would be to machine a new larger belt tensioner. I talked to paxton about this belt pain in the azz issue yesterday and they "may" release thier own new tensioner. They also mentioned that they are just CNC machined and not balanced. I was worried about that so I waited to make any. I will be getting this done soon and will probably be offering custom tension pulleys for those of us with these problems.
1993 LX 5.0 Black interior
Polished Novi2000, 42lb FMS injectors, Edlebrock performer intake, C&L 80mm, 75mm Pro products Throttle body, BBK U/L shortys, 3:73's, Frame tied/welded, welded rear housing, Welded in tourqe box kits for up and low, Moser 31 spline axles, Auburn Pro center, UPR dbl adj uppers, UPR adj lowers, QA1's, Eibach Springs, H-pipe w/Hooker maxflows, Aeromotive regulator, Walboro 255Hi-P, FP gage, shift light, Accel coil, PMS, MSD 6AL, LM1 w/ RPM option. Glide w/pro brake, JW housing, PTC10" converter and the "wheel" flywheel.
Would it not be easier to re drill the fixed bottom pulley to antother location instead of making a larger diameter one??
I am assuming everyone has the dual idler set-up
Not a bad idea at all but taking that plate off is a project in itself. Even though my documents and drawings came with a dual pulley install, my blower came with a single pulley.
For now, because I see so much boost, I'll probably go back to the 3.5" and see where I'm at. This 3" slips alot even at max tension. I just thought making a larger tension pulley was a pretty easy option.
1993 LX 5.0 Black interior
Polished Novi2000, 42lb FMS injectors, Edlebrock performer intake, C&L 80mm, 75mm Pro products Throttle body, BBK U/L shortys, 3:73's, Frame tied/welded, welded rear housing, Welded in tourqe box kits for up and low, Moser 31 spline axles, Auburn Pro center, UPR dbl adj uppers, UPR adj lowers, QA1's, Eibach Springs, H-pipe w/Hooker maxflows, Aeromotive regulator, Walboro 255Hi-P, FP gage, shift light, Accel coil, PMS, MSD 6AL, LM1 w/ RPM option. Glide w/pro brake, JW housing, PTC10" converter and the "wheel" flywheel.
Just occured to me that even if the slot were positioned deeper to give me more depth to adjust, I'd just hit the other side of the belt. The same holds true if I made a bigger tensioner. lol
1993 LX 5.0 Black interior
Polished Novi2000, 42lb FMS injectors, Edlebrock performer intake, C&L 80mm, 75mm Pro products Throttle body, BBK U/L shortys, 3:73's, Frame tied/welded, welded rear housing, Welded in tourqe box kits for up and low, Moser 31 spline axles, Auburn Pro center, UPR dbl adj uppers, UPR adj lowers, QA1's, Eibach Springs, H-pipe w/Hooker maxflows, Aeromotive regulator, Walboro 255Hi-P, FP gage, shift light, Accel coil, PMS, MSD 6AL, LM1 w/ RPM option. Glide w/pro brake, JW housing, PTC10" converter and the "wheel" flywheel.
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