Time for rebuild?

[jchalfan]

I have only put about 3000 miles on my sn92 since I installed it, and it supposedly only had about 2000 miles on it before that. It's on a 1990 5.0 Mustang. I bought it from a friend who never had it on a car, and he bought it from his friend who bought it new. I know it sat around my friends garage in the box for about 7 or 8 years.

So anyways... When the car is running, I can hear a "clunking" coming from the supercharger. It's not constant, but it clunks at least every 2-3 seconds, sometimes more often. Not at a regular interval. Using a screwdriver as a stethescope it definitely sounds like it's coming from the SC, but I hear the same clunking if I put the screwdriver on the idler.

I disconnected the SC belt and checked for the clunking, to see if maybe it was the smog pump and I was just hearing the clunk through the bracket, but that's not the case.

When I turn the unit over by hand, it's not perfectly smooth, but I don't feel any spots that really "hang up".

I suppose I should take it apart and check it out. If I split the case, can I re-use the seal inbetween, or do I have to have a new one on hand?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Jeff

[pavement pounde]

When you turn the pulley it should turn tight but smooth aswell.
If not you have to open it up.
Yes you can reus the large O-rings.
I made a foto document when rebuilding mine SN 93 witch is the same as the SN 92 exept for the frontside, but inside it is the same.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ton%20rebuild/

If you are lucky only the 2 races are pitted and you should replace them aswell as the 5 large balls.
If you are out of luck the impellershaft is pitted and that cost a bit more.
Take care when opening up the case becouse the balls wil fall out.
Good luck

Btw, did you mount the unit up straight and used atf-f oil ?

[jchalfan]

Yeah, the unit is straight up with the label pointing up, and it is filled with fype F ATF.

I'll take a look at your photos.

If the impeller shaft is pitted, I don't know that I will bother to replace it. A good deal on an older SC can quit being a good deal pretty quick when you start dumping a bunch of $$$ into it... :(

Other than this problem I'm pretty happy with the setup and would like to keep it, so hopefully I can fix it pretty cheap.

Thanks.

Jeff

[jchalfan]

I just went out to my car and turned the pully a bunch, and it definitely is not what I would call "smooth". I found one spot where it almost gets "stuck", it takes more effort to turn it past that point.

Jeff

[jchalfan]

Ok, I'm going to pull my SC off tonight or tomorrow and take it apart to inspect it.

I could use some guidelines on specifically what I need to be looking for.

I have been looking through other "rebuild" threads, and it looks like the critical areas are the races, balls, and impeller shaft. What should I expect to see? Should the impeller shaft and balls show any type of wear on them?

I'm just trying to get an idea of what I'm looking for before I tear it apart. I have a feeling that my problem may be quite obvious when I find it though.

Thanks for the help, and thanks for the pics pavement pounder!

Jeff

[pavement pounde]

Just open it up then go from there.
If you have the ability to make pictures and post them.
If someting is pitted it wil show.
Luckely every part can be optained new or used.
Graig at http://www.paradisewheelsinc.com/ has all the parts new and used.
Or he can rebuild it for you but it is going to cost you.
I am driving around with a used impeller shaft for 2 years now.
These are pretty simpel blowers.
Also if you have the ability to check with howmuch torque the pulley turns (torque wrench) it should be between 40-45 inch/pound.

[jchalfan]

I took it apart this morning, and nothing looks too bad to me. The balls look a little scored, but I don't know if that is normal. The race looks fine, as does the impeller shaft.

When I finally got the dust cap over the pully nut off, the nut was finger loose. I took the nut off and the pully slid right off.

I haven't taken it apart enough to check the bearings yet.

Here's a link to all the pictures, they are pretty big so I didn't want to put them in the post:

http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/jchalfan/

Hopefully that will work. If not, I will post the pics here.

I also noticed a lot of oil in the impeller housing, like you can see in the pictures. Does this mean that my rear seal is bad?

Jeff

[pavement pounde]

Yes, you rear tripple lip seal is worn and you need to replace that.
The shaft and races look good and if they are not pitted then the balls are not round anymore, thats the only reason to my point of vieuw why the pulley does not turn smooth.
Others may shime on this.
I think an freshup kit would do the trick.
1 special tripple lip rear seal
1 set of balls
2 rollerbearings that hold the oilpump, on second thought if they are worn it could make noise to.
You might want to replace the front seal aswhel now it is open. That's a normal seal.
Graig at http://www.paradisewheelsinc.com/ sells those fresh up kits.

[jchalfan]

Ok, unless anyone else has some suggestions, I'll probably order up a refresh kit on Monday. Is Paradise Wheels the best place to get one? I see C.U.N.D.N. racing sells them for $140 plus $10 shipping. Does anyone have any experience with these guys or their kits?

I managed to destroy the dustcap over the pully bolt removing it. I asume it will be fine without it?

Thanks a lot for the help!!

Jeff

[pavement pounde]

Yes C.U.N.D.N. would be ok to, I ordered a refresh kit with him to, good service.
I am not sure bud Graig could be a bit cheaper.
You can do without the dustcap.
After reasamble check the force that is needed to turn the pulley between 40 and 45 inch/pound.
Good luck

[jchalfan]

Thanks a lot!

Jeff