My Carroll super charger has remains of what seems to be the water/alcohol option. It also has a rocker switch inside, I was told it was the water pump switch. I know it'll be a nice boost when I get it rebuilt and going without it, but since it has the start to the water/ alcohol thing, maybe I should buy what I need and restore it. Any opinions? I'm not a pro so I don't know if there are any downfalls or troubles in doing so.
Meth/Water injection is nice but your not going to gain anything unless your making 6+psi and have a tuning device to get the benefits.
OOHH! another opportunity to tell my favourite MW injection story!
Way back, in the war years, the R2800 Pratt & Whitney was a standby of radial engine quality. A good plant, powering C-47s, Hellcats, etc. Sterling service, good reliability but, becoming outmoded as the march of technology moved on. A group of designers at P&W, spurred by the engineers working on the the R3350 project for the B-29, who claimed that mill was the hottest thing since sliced bread, took a test-stand 2800 and jacked up the boost stratospherically and just kept adding more and more ADI (WW2 talk for MW).
The results were, they pushed the R2800 to over 4000 hp, comfortably covering the R3350 by nearly double. When the motor was torn down, it was found to have suffered little from this.
Long story short, ADI is very useful in allowing you to jack up the boost levels, as it serves as charge cooler and fuel. If that's where you're going, there are a variety of excellent kits out there today, or you can piece together a controller, injector, yada, yada, yourself, if you want to experiment.
F=MA
I'm hoping to get 6psi after the rebuild, what type of tuning device and how would I use it?Originally Posted by speedytang
Whatever you can get for your car that allows you to tailor the ignition advance curve and fuel curves. MW allows you to run more boost, with more timing advance, for longer before blowing things up. That's what Speed means. At 6 psi with stock or reduced timing curves, MW is pretty much wasted money and effort.
F=MA
Thank You F=MA, I could not say it better.
Ah, I see what you mean.
I have the water injection system on my sn2000. I had a VR4 but got rid of it due to many complications, If i had the extra cash, I would get one on ebay, but currently getting ready to move so every $$$ is being saved:(
What I did for my water injection is I purhcased an adjustible hobbs switch for 28 bucks and have it set for 4.5psi. so it would be on by the time I hit 5psi, I'm figuring a small delay to fully activate the water injection in relation with increasing boost which would work great on your system. And best priced! I also used a surflow water pump which produce larger volumes than the tiny little windshiled washer pump. Now, I have a small shot of n20 hooked which is activated by the hobbs switch when I hit 4.5 lbs of boost. An even better method than the hobbs switch is to use the PAC controller, you can find it on DIY water injection ( a lot of thirdgen/grandnational guys there). The controller titrates voltage to the water pump and gives you a % of water injection in relation to boost. so, @ 1psi, you can set it for 20% and your max boost to 100% or what ever % works best by your tuning results.
Last edited by Dirk Diggler; 07-31-2006 at 10:14 AM.
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