VR4 pics

[69fury]

See if they will let you put them in the solvent tank or soak them in carb cleaner for a better examination.

From what I remember from Paradise wheels: Those races have to be perfect for those balls. A wear pattern is acceptable however. I bought new ones as I was unsure during my rebuild (SN-89).

Ok i got the race out of the scroll side, with some heat (didn't look to even damage the rear seal-still pliable).

The bellville spring and two shims were under it, and they're crusty- cant tell if they are rusty, or crusty from scorched fluid.

I will have them checked out for any damage other than a wear pattern by the machine shop, but i may just save up for the complete rebuild package that includes all the goodies.

I'm surprized by the shims under a bellevill spring- do you drive the race down flattening the spring all the way, then insert the pin? that seems counter productive to having a spring there at all...

or do you put the pin in and leave the race slightly elevated and use the case halves/balls to cinch it down and seat the race against the spring? what is the technique here?

Granetelli, thank you for chiming in here with your experience.. I really appreciate all the help i can get on this. I've built my own engines, transmisions, and entire cars but never a ball drive before- it's very clever tech. I'm wanting to spin her as much as she can take on the street feeding a 415 inch mill. I'm planning on using a good lube pump and alot of fluid reserve to stabilize temps on the street.

Looking into Megasquirt on corn (e-85) to handle my 10.2:1 compression. (maybe a spritz of Meth-lots of my friends here run meth/pumpgas on crazy boost nonintercooled, so i've got some experience to tap there)

-rick

[JPJP]

The shims against the Belleville washer are required to get the proper preload on the balls. I recommend you give Paradise wheels a call. He (Craig) will explain to you better than a back and forth here ever can.