Another pic. Sorry for the huge images......
Another pic. Sorry for the huge images......
Gray 89 LX. Mostly stock... for now.
You should have plenty of room to "tweak" the upper A/C line, from the pics, you need to rotate it clockwise at the "L" to gain the clearance needed. Take your time and be gentle, all will be well :D
Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th
HAHA!
Try putting one on a OHC V-8 Dakota. The kits were brand new, when I put mine on. Several items didn't want to make there way into the right place. I just busted out on the tire iron, and everything fell into place. ;)
I've done a SN-93 Unit on a Fox-Body, and it was smooth as silk.
I do think Paxton needs to spend a bit more attention to detail. Like putting the right parts in the box, the first time. (I know everybody makes mistakes, and it's all good, but things can get hairy when you're expecting to ride around in boost and you end up having to wait on parts.)
>>>>>>2000 SLT Dakota 4.7
>>>>>>>>>Paxton Powered
>>>>>>>>>>>13.3 @ 102mph
mods: Novi-1000, True Duals, Ported stock TB
ok guys, i was looking in my car (93gt) & at my novi 1k kit. i dont have the extension on my presure sensor. so it looks like im going to have trouble getting the tee onto my block! has anyone doen this w/o the extension? where can i get one of these extensions?
thanx for the help!!
I had the same problem with my Novi 2000. The idler pulley for the blower was going to interfere with the a/c line. The only fix I could find was yank the line and get a new one bent up...sucks, but that's part of modifying cars(some things don't work together).
-Ross
88 GT - Novi'd 302
98 Cobra - N/A 281
Originally Posted by Doug
It looks like you should have enough room to play around with the lines - take it slow, try not to bend them too hard.
On another note is your oil return secure? I would go back towards the firewall instead of down between the ac lines (just my thought :D
Ian
I got my A/C lines mangled enough to get it to fit. They aren't too pretty now, but they didn't break, so they'll be fine.Originally posted by Ian
It looks like you should have enough room to play around with the lines - take it slow, try not to bend them too hard.
On another note is your oil return secure? I would go back towards the firewall instead of down between the ac lines (just my thought :D
Ian
Yeah, everything is really tight in there. Since I've now had the blower off and on about 10 times trying to get it to fit, it'll be no big deal to reroute the oil return.
So, once I moved the A/C lines, I put the pulleys on, and they missed lining up with the smog pump by a QUARTER OF AN INCH! <sigh> So, I'm going to get a smog pump eliminator bracket so that I can adjust the position of that pulley and hope all the other pullies line up. Dumping the smog pump will give me a lot more room anyway.
But there's no way I'm going to get Steve's discharge tube in there with those C/C plates. Even the stock one will almost touch, and I don't even have the plates adjusted for max negative camber yet. Plus, with the rocking of the motor, I've still got a problem there.
I'm starting to think this just wasn't meant to be..:( :( :(
Gray 89 LX. Mostly stock... for now.
WOW - that has to be due to the different style block. I had to shim one pulley but only with a very small washer - yours is off much more than mine was.
Can you get a pic of the intake / discharge / cc plate area?
Ian
I know, I just can't beleive the block would be so different! And it's not even possible to shim this up right because the idlers stick out farther than the smog. Washers would only make it worse...Originally posted by Ian
WOW - that has to be due to the different style block. I had to shim one pulley but only with a very small washer - yours is off much more than mine was.
Can you get a pic of the intake / discharge / cc plate area?
Ian
I'll try and get a pic when I put the blower back on. Again.
Gray 89 LX. Mostly stock... for now.
I took some pics of my pulley and discharge tube situations. Here are the pullies. I think if I get the pulley spacers machined down some I can get them to line up. But they don't even line up with the blower pulley! I've wracked my brain to think what I might have done wrong installing the bracket, but it really only goes on one way, and the blower and the idler pulleys both attach to it anyway. It just amazes me that they could be off by so much.
Gray 89 LX. Mostly stock... for now.
Here is a pic with Steve's discharge tube. I cut off about 1/4" of it to get it to fit, he said I would probably have to. As you can see, it's basically touching.
Gray 89 LX. Mostly stock... for now.
And here is the stock Paxton discharge tube. Just enough room for my pinky.....
I'm really at a loss here. Ian, Kelly, any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.......
Gray 89 LX. Mostly stock... for now.
Just a thought, have you checked the placement of your motor mounts? When I installed my long tubes initially, I couldn't get the mounts to sit quite "right " after the install, the motor was actually shifted/ tilted over towards the pass side. The clearance was minimal between the shock tower & discharge tube. Later on I had to pull the heads & also removed the headers. When I re-installed everything, I got the mounts back into the proper position and noticed that I had well over an inch of clearance now between the shock tower & discharge.
My thoughts... loosen the motor mount nuts, play around with raising & lowering the engine within the adjustment range available. Worth a shot.
Dart Block 331 and No Power Adder, currently in pieces...... :weird:Originally Posted by Kato Engineering
Used to run 6.90 @ 100.4 mph in the 1/8th
this is true, i had to shim my engine on the passenger side to make it even. it sagged a bit causing my headers to rattle on the k-member. you can actually shim between the mount & k-member quite a bit............also, a 3/8" plenum spacer would raise your intake up a bit wich would pull your discharge tube that much up & away from your c/c plate. the 3/8 should be enough to move the tube & not change the pitch of the tube enough to cause mounting problems!
Well, I appreciate the help, guys, but I gave up. I put the hood back on my car, and even with the blower clocked over as far as it'll go, it touches the hood. And clocking the blower that far only makes my discharge tube clearance problem worse. My motor is sitting down all the way on the mounts, so if I tried to shim it over, it would raise the motor and make my clearance problem worse. Given the pulley problem as well, I decided it was time to punt.
I guess I can't really blame Paxton, I have a non-standard configuration, and I'm sure this kit would fit fine on 99.9% of the 86-93 Mustangs that are out there, I'm just unlucky enough to have one that fits into that .1% I wonder what other fun things I'll find about this car. In any case, the kit is now on eBay, it's still brand new and I'm throwing in my F-150 pulley, steel discharge tube, and Bosch bypass valve. If you know anyone that's looking for a Novi, tell them to take a look at my auction . Again, thanks anyway......
Gray 89 LX. Mostly stock... for now.
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