Disassembled my Novi 2000 today, pics inside.

[RoadW3@aol.com]

Well I disassembled my Novi 2000 head unit. I removed the front cover today. Everything looks great in there. The reason I took it apart is I have a small oil leak from the front. It actually stopped but I dont want it coming back a few months from now. I would also like to know if someone can help me identify the front seal. It actually looks like it is rawhide or a fiber seal. Oh and after I took it apart I fould out I didnt need to disassemble it to get the seal out. But I do know the bearing part numbers now so it will help out I am sure. I doubt I replace the bearings as they look great. Oh, the front main bearing is kinda strange. I have never seen one like it. It is not a assembled unit. It has the races with a small plastic insert that hold the ball bearings. I just have to figure out how to reassemble it. I am thinking grease them to get them to stay. I am uploading the pics into my photo gallary here on the site. I tried to use a photo hosting site but cannot figure out how to get them to open when the thread is opened.

Thanks,
Eric

[RoadW3@aol.com]

I put the disassembled unit in my dishwasher (dont tell the wife) and washed everything. Came out really clean. Anyways. There are three holes in the front cover. Two on the top and one on the bottom. Those holes go all the way through. When you remove the cover bolts use three of those bolts and screw them into the theree holes that are threaded. As you tighten them down it will pull the front cover off. So you dont have to pry and tear up your case. And it saves your "O" ring seal, but for the cost just replace it. While my unit was in the dishwasher I did check on it every 5 minutes or so. I was thinking with the hot water the case would expand and my main drive gear would come out. I was right. About 15 minutes into the wash I check it and it came right out. I got the bearing part numbers from it, but I must say the bearing was in great shape. To get the bearings off you would need a press. I would just take it to a good machine shop to have them pressed off and back on. Should be too much money. The only thing that stumped me is the impeller. I removed the nut and have applied a little heat, but it seems to be on there pretty good. I dont want to wreck anything and since I have the part numbers I need I will leave it at that.

Anyways, I stopped by the parts store today. What do you know, everything was in stock. Yeah, even those custom made seals Paxton was telling me about. No other place carries them.. Whatever. I picked up the front main seal and the front oil seal. The oil seal is a CR (chicago rawhide) 9838. It is a rubber seal with a metal case. Cost, are you sitting down, 3 dollars. The main seal, it is just a large "O" ring. Cost, 75 cents. All the bearing were checked at the shop and they said they were in great shape and did not need replacing. They told me that the bearings were very good quality and most likely heavier duty than I needed, but were obsolete now. The charger is about 6 years old. They said they could get the same type though. Cost, 8 bucks each for the small ones, the large one are about 18 each. If I wanted to go one they had on hand it would have been 5 dollars each. I asked what the difference would be and they said the ones on hand should not be spun to 60,000 RPM but could take the 50,000 I am almost at now. Actually with my 7 inch and 3.5 I think I am only at 45,000. So there you have it folks. I have bearing part numbers as well but they are wrote down somewhere and since there doesnt seem to be alot of interest I will save the time from getting them and typing them.

Oh, one last thing. I did Email someone on Ebay about the seals. I was told the seals were 45 dollars and the bearing 250.00. If I would have paid that kind of money just to find it here for under 50 bucks I would have been mad. If anyone has any questions please feel free to post them.

In closing. Paxton was going to charge me 410.00 dollars plus shipping both ways for the front oil seal. Of course the rep on the phone said they do seals and bearings only. I could not get just the oil seal replaced. If they would have just done the oil seal then I would have sent it in, heck even for 150.00 for the oil seal I would have sent it in. I just want fixed what I want fixed. I shouldnt have to pay for something I dont want. I told the guy on the phone, I just want the front oil seal replaced. He said oh well, that or nothing, and that I could either send it in or keep it or sell it, made no difference to him. Well you know what, I do not deserve that. I deserve better, I want to get what I want when I pay for it. I know there will be some people that say, but if it would have broke after you got it back you would have blamed Paxton. No, I would not have. I just dont want to foot a huge repair bill for something that is just not needed. It would be like taking your car in for a clutch, but they will only do the clutch if you replace the whole transmission. Ok, I am off my soap box now sorry for ranting.

Thanks,
Eric

[RoadW3@aol.com]

Ok, well the Paxton is back together with the new seal and main seal. I will be installing it in a bit. I got some pictures of the final assembly as well. That main bearing with the half cup on it. I took some heavy gease and stuck it together with that. Then just slid the lid over it and tightened all the allen head bolts down. All wrapped up. As soon as I can upload some pics I will.

Eric

[Hustler]

Check your pm

[jonathan]

Ok, well the Paxton is back together with the new seal and main seal. I will be installing it in a bit. I got some pictures of the final assembly as well. That main bearing with the half cup on it. I took some heavy gease and stuck it together with that. Then just slid the lid over it and tightened all the allen head bolts down. All wrapped up. As soon as I can upload some pics I will.

Eric

From the other thread... Interested in the bearing numbers etc, and where I could get them. I'm going to take a file to the impeller and fix it myself. It's going on a street car and wont need more than 8 pounds boost anyways.

You wouldn't be interested in rebuilding my headunit for a few hundred would you ? :D I pay shipping and price of parts and labour,

[RoadW3@aol.com]

Ok, I have done somemore research, thanks Hustler. I have also done some Emailing about the new bearing numbers and if they make a ceramic bearing for this application. Now from what I have been reading on the Barden ceramic bearings (Barden makes the bearings that are used in the Novi 2000) they are lighter, stronger, and cooler running than the steel. And to top it all off they need very little or no lubrication. SOO.. they should be a great replacement bearing and they are able to be spun faster than steel. I Emailed a large supplier or Barden bearings and will be getting the new part numbers with some prices. So if I can piece together a rebuild kit I will post all the numbers and businessess where the parts can be bought. Or I will get them and mail them out myself. For cost only of course, oh and maybe the gas to get all the stuff. I do not want to make any money.

I will post the other original part numbers 02-25-05 when I get them all together. Still compiling some data.

Thanks,
Eric

[RoadW3@aol.com]

jonathan, let me call a machine shop here in town. If they will press the bearings in and out and all the part numbers come through I will do it. How bad is the impeller? Did you get it off the main spindle?

Eric

[jonathan]

jonathan, let me call a machine shop here in town. If they will press the bearings in and out and all the part numbers come through I will do it. How bad is the impeller? Did you get it off the main spindle?

Eric

It's already off,

story goes, I purchased a used kit off ebay with a brand new headunit, got a steal of a deal on everything, came with extra piping, 2 sets of cog pullies, 3 tensioner pulleys, all brackets, mondy race bypass valve and the broken blower for $2000usd

Got a buddy interested in the extra head unit, hoping to give it to him for the price of the rebuild to help him out.

The blower came all apart, and the impeller is already off, with the shims and seals etc in a glad bag.

[RoadW3@aol.com]

That does sound like a good deal. You wouldnt happen to have another discharge tube with that set up. I am looking for the one Paxton sells with the Novi 2000 kit, you know where the pad for the bypass valve is on the back of the discharge tube. The tube I have is for the older kits where the bypass valve pad is on the bottom of the discharge tube.

So the blower is totaly disassembled? Does that mean the bearings are pressed out as well? Measure the seal that is used to seal the impeller shaft.

Here are the numbers of the parts that I have.
Main input shaft seal = CR (chicago rawhide) 9838 or 9837 or the Federal Mogul 472311
all are the same seal. The 9838 and 9837 do have a difference in the way the lip is, but they are both used for the same applications. You can check them out at www.chicago-rawhide.com. The measurements for this seal are 1.00 x 1.437 x 0.250.

Now the bearings, that is a bit differnet as I have not heard anything back yet. All the bearings are made by Barden/FAG industries. They make alot of bearings, and their website was not really that helpful. The bearing part numbers that I took to the bearing supply center were obsolete, no doubt replaced by new and or better ones. I found Barden Bearings on a google search. Anyways, on to the part number.

Large main drive bearings = 1 x ME1206 Thrust. That bearing will be the one that is in the unit itself. I managed to get that part number by washing the head unit in my dishwasher and letting the hot water expand the case and removed the main drive gear. There is one just like it on the face plate side that is Seperable. Meaning the main race is pressed onto the input shaft and a "cage" holds the ball bearings while the outer race is pressed on. The outer race (which will be in the front cover) does have a groove for the bearings to ride in but the outer edge is cut back for easy removal. From what I have read this make a good bearing and alows it to be of very high tolerance.

The two smaller impeller bearings = 2 x 203HX96 Barden Thrust. These bearings will be the smaller ones that are pressed on the impeller shaft.

I am working on the cross list as we speak, and also checking into the possiblilty of ceramic bearings. I am sure they will cost more but should really expand the potential of the Novi 2000. As long as balances are in check. Remember all the bearings must be thrust and the side of the bearing that says "thrust" must be installed with that side faceing the thrust side. In other words for the Novi 2000, the thrust side must is on the outside.

Thanks,
Eric

[jonathan]

Any updates on this ? I'm interesting in rebuilding this blower... I'm actualy going to wet sand the housing to take the high spots on the scratches off, and im going to lightly file the high spots off the impeller blades... the clearences will be larger, so I shouldnt have to worry much about that, the balance might be off somewhat, but its only gonna make around 8psi on a stock motor.

Are you interested in doing a bearing/seal install and assembly ? No warranty obviously.

[RoadW3@aol.com]

Sorry about not updating this page. I have installed this and it is working great, no more oil leak.

Jonathan, Email me your phone number and I will give you a call. RoadW3@aol.com

Eric

[silvergts1998]

This is a great post with great info!!!